Story and photos by: James Huang
This article was originally published on BikeRadar

A look at the WorldTour support network.
Inside the team buses at pro race Paris-Roubaix in 2012. Paris-Roubaix is fought over by the riders on the road but there’s also a tremendous support network in place to keep the massive machine that is WorldTour-level bicycle racing rolling along. From team buses and trucks to mechanics, soigneurs and fans, check out our image gallery for a look at what goes on behind the scenes at the world’s greatest one-day road race.

It’s hard to travel incognito when your team truck is wrapped like this. Lotto-Belisol stores all of its bikes on the truck in one lower row, leaving the upper level for wheels.

Lotto-Belisol’s team truck is a fully capable, mobile workshop for the team. The inside of the Rabobank team truck. Lights mounted underneath the rear door allow Lotto-Belisol trucks to continue working after dark. More wheels are stored in the forward end of the Katusha team mechanics’ bus. Katusha soigneurs get these two lower compartments for food, coolers, and drinks. A small table pulls out from the side of the Katusha team bus for mechanics. This washer and dryer on the Katusha team bus both see heavy use during the season. There is room for lots of bikes and wheels inside the Rabobank team truck. Power and water are critical elements for team mechanics. This portable surge protector allows several team vehicles to operate out of a single outlet. The workbench inside the Rabobank team truck was crowded with wheels the day before Paris-Roubaix. The inside of the GreenEdge team truck. Note the lights mounted to the flip-up rear door. Mechanics work long hours. Astana’s team truck is capable of storing an incredible amount of gear. Astana’s mechanics travel around in a big Iveco box truck.

A washer and dryer are tucked into the lower bay of the Astana team truck. Sorry, we don’t know what the black box is.

 The driver’s view of the Astana team bus. Astana’s bus driver has to navigate this beast through tight European roads.

Big, puffy seats for the Astana riders provide a cozy place on the bus as they travel to and from races.

 Katusha mechanics don’t use a truck. Instead, they use a converted touring bus as there are fewer restrictions on European roads. Compressed air and water hoses are kept on a reel in one of the Katusha team truck compartments. The inside of the Katusha team mechanics’ bus is a little more cramped than the usual box truck but there’s still plenty of room for bikes, wheels, and other gear. Two custom painted frames are ready to be built.

GreenEdge’s awning is a critical piece of equipment when mechanics have to work outside in the rain. The inside of the Cofidis truck is stocked with wheels on one side and bikes on the other. Bikes are stored in the Cofidis truck with the wheels removed.

By: Zdenko Kahlina

Let me introduce you to ‘wheel sucking’ from a cycling perspective.
It was a Friday, and after a long and difficult week at work I donned some Lycra cycling clothing, drove my car east of Edmonton to the Sherwood Park, mounted my Jota-Moreno bike and headed into the rural area of Strathcona County. The goal was to clear the tension from my legs and the metaphysical residue of the week in the office from my head.

Drafting in cycling

It was a typical crisp, but sunny spring afternoon, and as I rode on well known roads around Ardrossan I was gradually overtaken by a feeling of peace and well-being. A few kilometers into my ride I noticed that my shadow had an extra head. I turned to look behind me, and my brief glance confirmed that this was not my imagination but I had indeed acquired a wheel sucking guy. 

Drafting in its pure form: the British team pursuit squad on their way to Olympic gold in 2008. Photograph: Tom Jenkins

So what is a Wheel Sucking?
‘Wheel sucking’ is a term used to describe the practice of cycling behind another rider with wheels a few centimeters apart, for an extended period of time without changing position (moving forward) to gain a physiological and aerodynamic advantage by reducing the amount of work he has to do. Some have claimed that this practice allows the “wheel sucking” rider to perform 30% less work. The advantage of ‘wheel sucking’ is magnified when the size of the front rider is large, when there is a considerable headwind and when the front rider is moving at a significant speed > 30 km/h.

Wheel sucking on the track. During the race, it’s called ‘tactical drafting’!

Drafting
The practice of riding in the slipstream close behind someone’s rear wheel, thus greatly reducing the effort you need to expend keeping at their speed is called drafting. If you’re riding in the middle of a big group this can, supposedly, save you up to 40% in energy. It’s all pretty standard and uncontroversial if you’re participating in an organized road race or sportive, assuming of course you take your turn at the front.

That’s me doing ‘tactical drafting’ during the race in south Edmonton

The story continues…
So, I should point that it would be O.K. with me, since it was only a training (read: pleasure) ride, but the guy never bothered to say even hello, never mind asking me if it’s O.K. to ride behind me. So, suddenly I hit the breaks and since he was too close to me and couldn’t avoid it, he crushed into me falling onto the road heavily…

No, no, I didn’t do that, but for sure was thinking about doing it.

He sat on me for bloody long time and didn’t say ‘thanks’ when he finally peeled off! Sitting on the wheels of strangers–especially when they don’t know you’re there, and especially when it’s me at the front–is a very bad thing to do.

Drafting in the group, during the training ride

First of all, it’s dangerous for the same reason automotive tailgating is dangerous. The last thing I want in the event I’m forced to brake suddenly is for some wheel sucker, I didn’t even know was there, to wind up humping my back. Second of all, it’s just rude–it’s like sidling up behind someone at a urinal and putting your hand on his shoulder, or even joining in uninvited and “crossing the streams.”

Nevertheless, there are some people who think that, no matter what the circumstances, Lycra clothing and a racing bike mean ‘it’s on’. It’s the ‘he was asking for it’ mentality of the cycling world. But it wasn’t ‘on’; in fact, it was very much ‘off’.

So I swung off and waved the mysterious rider through. I said something along the lines of, ‘You shouldn’t sit on my wheel like that’ (in the same way you might say to the guy at the urinal, ‘Hey, you mind backing up a little bit?’), and then moved to the left side of the road to further underscore my ‘it’s so very not on’ point and allow him to continue on his way.

Apparently, though, I hadn’t done enough. ‘Whatever’, replied the guy, and after I moved back to the right side of the road he latched on to me again. At this point I felt very much like a guy being followed into the man’s room of a bar by a ‘frat boy’, so I reiterated my request and by way of explanation offered a more succinct version of the above.

By now you’d think that he’d either respect my wishes, or else dismiss me as an old ‘roadie’ fusspot, but in either case leave me alone. Instead, he said this:

‘C’mon, don’t we (all) do this for the danger? Where’s the flint in your veins? Don’t be such a pussy’.

He said this just sarcastically enough for it to be ironic, in the well-practiced manner of someone accustomed to getting his way and with a lifetime’s experience in telling his parents off while remaining utterly confident that they will continue to praise him for his mediocrity and keep writing those tuition checks to Bard. Now I really wanted to push my brakes and make him fall.

The advantage of ‘wheel sucking’ is magnified when the size of the front rider is large – like on this picture.

It made me extremely angry–not so much because he had called me a ‘pussy’, but more because he had found one of the few people in Alberta, who would not push him off his bike and break his teeth for doing so. Instead, his childhood had once again received a stay of execution and the bubble in which he lived would remain intact for yet another day. One day he will run into someone else who will do exactly that: brake his teeth! I hope he finds and reads this blog and recognize himself in my story…

Wheel suckers are bottom feeders and slackers
Wheel suckers are often considered bottom feeders and slackers as they do not work toward the greater good of the rider or riders in front of them. But there are many instances where wheel sucking is perfectly acceptable. Putting individual race tactics aside, an annoying but perfectly acceptable implementation of the technique, wheel suckers have many valid reasons for not ‘pulling through’. I have listed a few below.

It’s O.K. to suck when…
• The sucker is the sprinter being set up for a stage/ race win. (this is generally not considered true wheel sucking as it does not last long enough to qualify, however there are times that sprinters are dragged for miles in preparation of the final sprint, mountainous terrain would be an example)
• The sucker is a team mate who has had problem and needs help returning to the peleton (again this is up for debate if it is a short duration, but the technique is the same).
• The sucker is your spouse or significant other (happens to the best of us, if your the stronger rider, you’ll be pulling them, get used to it).
• The sucker is an athlete you are coaching (They are paying you too pull).
• The sucker is totally blown (Most commonly seen on group rides, never leave a man behind).
• The sucker is you, as long as I’m not pulling!
• The sucker is me, as long as your pulling!

 It’s O.K. when the sucker is your significant other

The tactical ‘wheel sucking’ is O.K.

The tactical wheel sucker:
In racing, there are occasions, when wheel sucking becomes a useful tactic. One example may be a rider who is in a lead break and their team leader or overall race contender is not. The rider may choose not to ‘work’ with the group and wheel suck to decrease the chance of having a successful breakaway. Other times the wheel sucker is simply not strong enough to be in the break and is doing everything they can to hang on. These riders are of not much concern for long, but are annoying because, they can’t help in the groups success and take energy away while they are engaged.

The group ride wheel sucking or drafting is O.K.

The group ride wheel sucker:
This is the most common place to meet a wheel sucker or become one yourself. Group ride dynamics seem to breed them. Newer riders are often scorned by the more experienced group because they spend the entire ride sucking the wheels of the stronger riders, but it’s not their fault. It is the natural order of things. For them too ride with the group and learn how not to be a wheel sucker they must first be a wheel sucker and suffer the humiliation of not being able to ‘pull’. A good wheel sucker can deflect much criticism by being gracious, such as bestowing the honor of allowing a rider who is dropping back the opportunity to drop in front of them and in so doing allow that rider the great honor of pulling again sooner.

It’s not O.K. to suck…
• Your teammate who is winning
• Your spouse or significant other
• Anyone you want to ride with again and again and again.
• Anyone who can make you suffer.
• Me!!!

Riding in the group is not ‘wheel sucking’ unless you don’t take turns at the front.

Detractors of the ‘wheel sucking’

The moral of my story
If you find yourself in a situation to become ‘wheel sucker’, first of all be nice. Say hello to the guy you want ‘wheel suck’. Talk to him first about something… anything, before you ask him if it’s O.K. to follow his rear wheel. Most people are going to be nice and say ‘yes’ after this type of introduction.

My position’s pretty clear: I’m happy to either draft or be drafted. With the former I don’t go ludicrously close to another bike’s rear wheel and I’m vigilant in case my temporary helper has to brake or swerve to avoid something. And if we reach a red light I’ll often try to set off quickly so as to offer a reciprocal helping hand. When in front I indicate well in advance, and point a helpful finger towards upcoming potholes and the like. But the most important thing is communication between the two of you on the road. One should never assume that its O.K. to draft some stranger without asking first!

There is a spin-off minefield of protocol connected to drafting: as a male rider is it a bit ungentlemanly to do so to a female commuter given that the basic technique involves staying as close to their buttocks as possible? A friend of mine was once drafting a Lycra-clad road cyclist from Edmonton to Sherwood Park, when she turned round to accuse him of ‘having a gawp’. He backed off.

Drafting is common in all group ridings.

Zen and the art of  ‘wheel sucking’.
Detractors of this practice and there are many, often look down and despise the humble “wheel sucker”. These detractors can easily be generalized as people who are testosterone filled and excessively aggressive. Furthermore these people do not possess the characteristics and are unable to be enlightened by the Zen that accompanies a “wheel sucking” journey.

Close drafting during the races is very important

Humility is an essential component to attaining the Zen of “wheel sucking”. Start the bike ride with statements like: ‘I’m feeling lousy’, ‘I had a hard day at the office’ or ‘My bike is heavier than yours’. Statements like these allow the rider seeking ‘wheel sucking’ Zen to disappear amidst the pre-ride bravado. It also volunteers others to offer their wheels for you to latch onto, when the ride starts.

Drafting behind a friend is O.K.

During the ride get into the ‘zone’. You’ll know you’re there when you suddenly start hearing nothing but the melodic humming of the bicycle chain and other moving bike parts. Often peace and tranquility in the ‘zone’ can be disrupted by calls to pull or ‘do some work up front’. For any true blue ‘wheel sucker’ this disrupts the essence of disappearing into ‘oneness’ of a pack ride. To avoid such situations you can always feint weakness leaving a gap between you and the rider in front, often resulting in a charge from the ‘macho men’ to close the gaps. Alternatively you could be gracious and allow the rider returning from his pull in the front of the pack, the wheel of the rider in front of you. These acts often work as the aggression of a fast ride often results in riders wanting to get ahead of each other. To attain Zen stay calm and be at peace especially on a fast pack ride.

So what happens if there’s a break? A true practitioner of wheel sucking never gets caught out in a break. A genuine ‘wheel sucker’ sees all that happens around him. A break is not perceived as such but rather it is a huge suck, dragging and pulling the wheel sucker from one zone to another. In the immortal words of a wise Jedi ‘feel the force’, use the pulls of these breaks to move with the breaks. When one does so, it’s like the shifting of the sands, effortless.

Do wheel suckers ever win? Always! Never forget humility, especially if you want to keep riding with the pack. What good is a wheel sucker without a wheel to suck?

Peace all and ride heaps!

Source of ‘Zen and the art of wheel sucking’:

http://www.teamabsolut.net/index.html

By: Zdenko Kahlina

Tune up and start slowly after a long winter off the roads
It’s been a long winter, the sun is out, and your thoughts turn to cycling with your buddies (you don’t want to be embarrassed about your performance), maybe a summer cycling adventure you have been planning, or maybe that century ride “personal best”.

Spring is here, I’m ready… are you?

An early start to the season is every cyclist’s dream. After long months spent out of the saddle, or in the basement on your rollers, enthusiasm often overcomes common sense. Spring cycling isn’t about racking up the miles on your bike. Instead, spend the time getting back your feel for riding… and I am not talking about professional cyclists, but rather about veterans (guys over 40!) or recreational cyclists, who use bike as an exercise to stay healthy.

It’s Spring – Time to Get Back into Shape
Spring signals the time of year in which both cyclist and motorist have to relearn how to share the road. Motorists have fallen out of the habit of looking for cyclists at intersections and stop signs, so proceed with caution. Breezing through a stop sign is always risky, but even more so this early in the season.

Snow is still on the ground, but the roads are dry.

Then, of course, there’s the shape of the roads at this time of year. Potholes big enough to swallow your bike whole and a buildup of sand, dirt and debris along the side of the road can make a leisurely cycle a dangerous slalom. Add to these hazards the occasional ice patch, a sure thing on mornings that follow a mild day and a cold night, and you can understand why spring cycling has its own set of challenges.

Performance – That’s the name of the game

I would recommend checking out your favorite route(s) by car before heading out on the bike. Lots of bike paths and rural roads might still be snow- and ice-covered, so don’t assume that just because your street is clear, the snow has melted everywhere. It’s also wise to delay your morning ride until the sun has had time to thaw any ice that lurks along the side of the road. That’s why I am never going to understand my fellow cyclists in Edmonton who begin their riding at 9 AM even in March and April. It’s still very cold at that time and one hour delay can make big difference in temperatures.

One advantage of an early spring ride: traffic is no issue

Those large fluctuations in temperature can keep a cyclist guessing when it comes to choosing the right wardrobe. Lots of layers is the answer, including essentials like gloves, booties and a cap for under your helmet. As always, make sure your clothing is bright and easily seen. When it comes to cycling, there is no such thing as too gaudy.

Set of winter clothing – If you live in Alberta, get all of it!

If you’re hauling your bike out of the garage for the first time, give it a quick tune-up to make sure it’s roadworthy. Pump up the tires, clean and oil your chain and check the brakes. Spending those extra few minutes checking out your equipment can spare you an unexpected walk home.

Make sure you choose the right wardrobe: wear lots of layers!

When you do get on the bike, rein in that early-season eagerness to prove you haven’t lost anything over the winter months. Limit your mileage and don’t push too high a gear. Go easy, and all you’ll feel the next morning are a few muscles you haven’t worked in a while. Go too hard and don’t be surprised if your neck and back feel the effects.

This is what’s waiting for you outdoors.

This advice holds true even for those who have been diligently working out all winter. Riding on the road is very different from riding indoors, so don’t be fooled into thinking that spinning can replace the real thing. There are no vibrations, bumps or potholes indoors. It’s normal for your butt to be sore after those first few rides. You might also feel it in your hands, so padded gloves are an asset early in the season.

My advice is to concentrate on building an aerobic base by slowly increasing mileage and your cycling fitness. That means leaving the sprints and hill repeats until you’ve accumulated lots of easy miles.

Rural roads in Strathcona County are safe with low traffic volume

With warmer weather on the way, here’s an easy 8-point checklist to get you off on the right pedal.
Before you head out for spring cycling, take a few minutes to clean your bike and get yourself organized with a goal—and maybe even a coach. With spring here, we can look forward to more daylight (and maybe a new pair of sunglasses), nicer weather, and better, safer road conditions. In other words: primo bike weather. Which means, if you’re not an all-weather rider, it’s time to drag your two-wheeler up from the basement or haul it off of its wall mount, and actually ride it again.

Clean your bike using a damp cloth

 But before you do, it’s a good idea to get your bike—and yourself—road-ready. Here’s a simple checklist that will help, courtesy of Bicycling magazine:

YOUR BIKE
• Quick-clean your bike using a damp cloth. Remove the layer of dust and grime from the frame, rims, derailleurs, brakes, handlebars… okay, just clean everything. Do the chain and chain rings with an old toothbrush and soapy water or a degreaser.

This is how I clean my chain.

• Inspect the tires by deflating the tube to about half its pressure. While rotating the wheel, slowly manipulate each tire in your hands to expose cuts in the sidewalls or tread. If you find any deep cuts, replace the tire. If the tires look fine, inflate them to the recommended PSI (it’s listed on the sidewall).

• Check the indicator line on the brake pads to see if they need to be replaced. If they’re worn down, head to the local bike shop for new ones.
• Take two minutes to remove the seatpost from the frame. It can bond to it permanently unless you do this on occasion (it happened to me and it was embarrassing). Wipe the seatpost clean, and then smear a little grease on the part that fits into the frame.
• Spin the wheels to see if they’re running crooked. If you see any wobbling, or hear strange rattles or clinks, make an appointment to take the wheel to the bike shop. (Go midweek; weekends are busy this time of year.)

Inspect tires, brakes… wipe the seatpost clean and you’ll have a worry free ride.

Training program
To ride at your best, you will need a training program – one that sets reasonable goals and will keep you focused. You want to maximize the results of your efforts (and time available to train) but not go out so hard or fast that you end up injured. I have one simle rule that I always try to keep: never, ever go slower than 30 km/h. Sounds easy, but it’s not!

During the training ride try to maintain speed of over 30 km/h – at all times!

Here are a few tips for successful training:

1. Before you get into serious training, have at least a few hundred long easy miles under your belt as a good base.

2. Increases total weekly miles by 10 – 15% per week. The 10 to 15% figure has been used for years by marathons runners to minimizes musculoskeletal injuries with training.

3. Once you begin your actual training program, it’s important to try to ride at least 5 days a week, and take at least one day off. Depending on your level of training (or evidence of overtraining) the seventh day is either an additional intermediate mileage day or an additional rest day.

The most important thing in training is: consistency!

A typical weekly program would look like this:
• ONE long mileage day – The ride which is your goal is the basis for planning your weekly long mileage days. Some coaches suggest you work up to a ride equal to the length (or even 125% of the length) of that event while others feel that reaching a distance equal to 75% of the event distance is adequate. This is usually a Saturday ride (with Sunday as a backup for bad weather or other unexpected circumstance that could derail your training program).

• ONE short mileage day – Plan your short mileage day to follow the high mileage day. It should be about 1/4 of the length of the long ride and ridden at a leisurely pace to loosen up your muscles after the long ride of the week.
• THREE intermediate mileage days – The intermediate mileage days are midway between the short ride and the long ride in distance. At least one of these should be an interval training ride.
• ONE or two rest days off the bike

4. The pace of your training rides:
• the long ride should match your own goal ride pace
• the short “recovery” ride should be a leisurely pace at no more than 50-60% of your maximum heart rate
• two of the intermediate rides should be at the planned goal ride pace
• one of the intermediate rides, preferably prior to your day off the bike, should be at a brisk pace 5 – 10 km/h faster than your planned goal ride pace.

I always take a speed of 30 km/h as my goal and a measurement of hard work, during my rides. Why you ask? Well because at this speed, it always takes 2 minutes for each kilometer of my ride. So, it is easy to calculate my average speed at any time during my ride, and make instant corrections if required. For example, one look at my bike-computer tells me that after 20 minutes riding, I should have covered 10 km of the ride. After 30 minutes 15 km, etc. you get the idea. If I’m behind this goal, I know I am doing a slow ride. Besides, this speed is perfect for my age group: not slow, but not too fast.

5. You can estimate the length of your training program by taking the long ride from your base training period, increasing it by 10% to 15% a week, and repeating this until you arrive at a figure that is at least 75% of the length of the event for which you are training.

6. Remember to be flexible and adjust your program to your lifestyle. A rigid program is destined to fail.

7. A good nutrition program is an important part of preseason training. Carbohydrates are the key to optimizing your personal performance. If you are planning to trim off a few pounds while training, cutting back on total Calories risks poor performance and the psychological impact of feeling you are not going to be at or beyond last years level. So if you are trying to shed the pounds, be prepared to deal with the fatigue that will surely occur on those longer rides. Suggestions for nutrition for six specific types of rides are summarized on the web site Cycling Performance Tips.

 I’m ready for the spring rides; are you?

Keep these tips in mind as you plan your training program and it should be a successful riding season! Hope to see you somewhere on the road in Strathcona County this spring! And don’t forget to say ‘Hi’ to an old guy on the bike dressed all in blue colors (I love blue)!

Source: Cyclingnews.com, by James Huang

This article originally appeared on BikeRadar.
Most companies have a ‘halo’ bike, but only a handful can afford them. We’ve all seen or read about them at this point, and some have even been lucky enough to ride (or better yet, own) one: those ultra-premium ‘halo’ bikes that are cycling’s equivalent of that old Lamborghini Countach poster on your childhood wall.

These days, nearly every company has at one ultra-premium bike in the range – but if only a handful of people can afford them, what’s the point?

Consider the following examples:

• Cannondale SuperSix Evo Ultimate: US$12,100
• Felt DA1 Di2: US$12,999
• Giant TCR Advanced SL: US$10,300
• Trek Madone 6.9 SSL Leopard/Schleck Edition: US$11,623.47
• Specialized S-Works Tarmac SL4 Di2: US$11,000
• Cervélo R5ca: US$9,800 (frameset only)

LOOK 695 SR model

Fantasy for some; reality for others
Halo bikes cost roughly one-fifth of the average US household income – meaning they’re only the stuff of dreams for most. But as unattainable as those bikes seem, there are people that can and do buy them. BikeRadar spoke with several of the top companies in the industry and all of them reported that flagship bike sales – while low in total number – are still ticking along, global economic issues be damned.

“We find it’s more of the affluent (doctor, investor, lawyer), performance-minded customer that purchases a bike at this price range,” said Andrew Juskaitis, global product marketing manager for Giant. “Because of their price, the number of halo bikes produced is dwarfed to that of their more-affordable counterparts – figure the ratio is about 40-to-1.”

“I won’t disclose how many total we make,” said Scott PR and marketing director Adrian Montgomery, “but for the US market it’s a 1:10 ratio of sales of halo bikes vs. our value bikes, like Ultegra CR1s. We entered the market at the high end and there is still considerable demand for our premium bikes even after we’ve focused on value for the US market.”

Even industry powerhouse Specialized – no stranger at all to mass production and huge volume – says sales of its impressively broad range of halo bikes are better than expected. The company’s top-end road bike, the S-Works + McLaren Venge, is a joint collaboration with the heralded automaker of the same name and costs US$18,000. Its most expensive mountain, the S-Works Epic Carbon 29, isn’t quite as outrageous but still commands a whopping US$10,500 – and the company can’t keep either one in stock.

Scott offer a full range of their impressive Foil aero carbon road bikes. Top-end ones get premium kit and the highest grade carbon fibers while midrange ones use a more economical spec and a slightly heavier fiber blend that doesn’t detract too much from performance but saves an enormous amount of cash

It’s not always about volume
Halo bikes don’t always make economic sense but manufacturers still feel they hold a valuable spot in the marketplace. Their lofty prices (and presumably, the associated impressive performance) can raise the perceived status of the brand, bikes developed for sponsored teams can earn prized competition credibility, and developers learn valuable lessons while pushing the envelope of technology.

“We build halo bikes to see how far we can push our product line – literally building what we feel are the best bikes in the world for that 1-2 percent of riders who desire the very best, to see exactly how light, how stiff and how aerodynamic we can push our overall bike designs,” said Juskaitis. “Every time we produce one of these bikes we learn something new. Sure, the great majority of us can’t afford them, but these are the products we aspire to.”

FUJI Altamira model – Marko Kump’s bike

Flagship bikes are also developed to cater to sponsored world-class riders and teams. Their physical demands far exceed the daily rigors of most everyday riders and as is always the case in sport, every team is looking for every possible advantage over its rivals. That unique microcosm provides an ideal testing environment and continually forces everyone involved to push the envelope instead of contently settling for the status quo.

“Working with our teams and athletes is how we build better products,” said Sims. “The average person on the street will not have the power of a Mark Cavendish so we need their numbers and feedback. As a company, I think we have built a great reputation for being able to interpret that feedback and put it to good use to build the next great bike.”

“There absolutely needs to be halo bikes in order to push the limits of what’s possible,” insisted Cervélo media liaison Mark Riedy. “It’s not realistic for a manufacturer to be able to come out with a frame that weighs 25% less and is stiffer than the current base production models without rolling it out as a super limited production model. We just can’t jump into massive production right away with cutting-edge technology.

“One thing that might be getting lost these days is the sense of how special a carbon frame is,” Riedy added. “We make very few R5ca frames and they’re all just as fussed over as an artisan made steel frame. They’re handmade and are as cutting edge as anything you’d see in F1 or Moto GP racing.”

Cervélo’s ultra-exclusive R5ca is one of the lightest road frames currently available and is built in the US by company engineers – not factory workers. Unfortunately, it’s also one of the most expensive at $9,800 for just the frameset

Why halo bikes help all of us
There are probably regular consumers out there who can churn out as many watts as a Tour de France pro but odds are the average rider’s power output wouldn’t even run your washing machine. That person may not be able to necessarily extract all the performance potential of a halo bike but that doesn’t mean we don’t all still stand to benefit from their existence anyway.

Invariably, those new technologies trickle down to more attainable price points as manufacturers figure out ways to reproduce those features at lower costs and amortize development expenses over a wider volume of product.

“Halo bikes are where the latest technology comes from and these are the product used by our athletes and teams,” Sims told us. “Ultimately, what gets developed on the halo bikes will trickle down to the more affordable models. If you take for example our Allez bikes, they are very entry level but these frames are stiffer than the frame that Levi Leipheimer used to win the Tour of Germany a few years ago. What is the S-Works bike today becomes the Pro bike tomorrow.”

MERCKX bike EMX – 7 model

“Many of the technological benefits that our engineers develop can be carried down to non-halo bikes,” said Felt communications manager Bill Childers. “The more that we can pull down to the rest of the line, the better the bikes are for our customers. We developed the InsideOut process [for the F1] and reverted to a more efficient round tube design but we were also able to utilize the same process and round tube design for the F2-F5. So, as a result of seeking to produce the fastest bike possible, we are also able to raise the performance of all the bikes in our line.”

“The dream bike we offered five years ago is now a value bike – without carbon tubulars,” added Montgomery. “[Customers] find they can own the Addict with Ultegra and it rides so close to the Di2 bike that it’s a great value and half the money.”

You can buy a car for that money! I can go faster on my old Huffy!

Any discussion of such high-end exotica invariably elicits the usual laundry list of comments from the peanut gallery:

• “That US$10,000 bike isn’t twice as good as a US$5,000 one”
• “I can go just as fast on my 1980 Peugeot – only the legs matter”
• “The average rider has way more weight to lose on their body”
• “That bike isn’t UCI-legal anyway”
• “You could buy a motorcycle for that money”

A team replica Trek Madone 6.9 SSL Leopard/Schleck Edition similar to this one will cost you $11,623.47 at full retail.

Guess what – it’s all true. And you know what else? So what.

This end of the price spectrum definitely brings sharply diminishing returns, no bike is a substitute for true fitness, few of us are as fit as we could be, most of these ‘superbikes’ (on the road, at least) fall well south of the UCI weight limit, and yes, the same amount of money really will buy either a top-end Cannondale or a Ducati 848 Evo.

As with any gear-oriented sport, people just like to have the best – if only for the illusion of competitive advantage – and some of those people have the money to spend. Moreover, many buyers don’t make their bicycle purchases based on how well it suits their abilities. Truth be told, we often buy based on what we want to be and the image we want to project and just like so many people own cars that can go 240km/h in a world that rarely lets them go half that, it’s the idea that it’s capable of such a feat that we find so compelling.

Top-end bikes are also cheap in the grand scheme of expensive playthings. Consider that one typically needs less than US$10,000 to buy the exact same machine as what top pros are using and then compare that to motorsports, where that same amount of money gets you a used Honda Civic. Sure, that Ducati nets a heck of a lot more speed per dollar than any bicycle but it’s not the best. If you’re truly after the exact same equipment as the pros, we dare say that Valentino Rossi’s machine might cost just a little extra.

Pinarello Prince Carbon

Where we go from here
There’s some indication that we’re approaching the glass ceiling – but limits are meant to be broken.

“At about US$12,000, the bikes don’t lose much weight and just look more exotic,” Montgomery admitted. “I remember someone asking why our RED Equipped LTD a few years ago didn’t include ceramic bearings. Well, we drew the line – US$13,000 was too much and a ceramic bearing is invisible.”

“In 2010, the US$14,000 TCR Advanced SL Limited was the most expensive bike we had ever produced,” said Juskaitis. “We sold out of these bikes in less than a month [but] for the foreseeable future, this is as high as we will venture.” Specialized, on the other hand, won’t artificially limit itself but any price increase will also have to come with a real gain.

Wilier 799

“We will always look to the next great piece of technology and that generally comes at a premium, so as long as we keep riding and pushing ourselves to develop better bikes we will keep going,” said Sims. “Obviously frames are just one part of the equation so if parts prices go up then bike prices go up, too.”

As with anything that lies out of our financial reach, halo bikes aren’t there to taunt us, mock us, or to remind us of what we want but can’t have – they exist simply because they can. Moreover, no one’s forcing anyone to buy anything and whether directly or indirectly, we all benefit.

So go ahead and rightfully take pride in your current machine, knowing full well that you’ll eek out its full potential. When it’s time, though, rest assured that there’ll be always something better waiting for you when you’re ready.

Giant Bicycles once built their business model on offering primarily mainstream bikes with exceptionally high value. Now the company also offer top-end race bikes costing upwards of $10,000 like this Rabobank team-issued machine

Specialized’s top-end S-Works + McLaren Venge carries an enormous US$18,000 retail price – and yet the company says the entire stock is presold. Photo: © VeloDramatic

A team replica Trek Madone 6.9 SSL Leopard/Schleck Edition similar to this one will cost you US$11,623.47 at full retail. Photo: © James Huang/Future Publishing

A Trek Madone like this isn’t all that far off in terms of performance, however, and costs less than US$5,000 thanks to some impressive trickle-down tech and a less expensive component group. Photo: © James Huang/Future Publishing

Cervélo’s ultra-exclusive R5ca is one of the lightest road frames currently available and is built in the US by company engineers – not factory workers. Unfortunately, it’s also one of the most expensive at US$9,800 for just the frameset. Photo: © James Huang/Future Publishing

Scott offers a full range of its impressive Foil aero carbon road bikes. Top-end ones get premium kit and the highest grade carbon fibers while midranged ones use a more economical spec and a slightly heavier fiber blend that doesn’t detract too much from performance but saves an enormous amount of cash. Photo: © James Huang/Future Publishing

Giant certainly hasn’t lost sight of its bread-and-butter customers, though. A second-tier TCR Advanced like this one is a kissing cousin to the top-end SL version but costs almost two-thirds less. Photo: © James Huang/Future Publishing

Felt is no stranger to the high-end game, either. Though its bikes still often offer better value than many competitors, bikes like this top-end F1 Di2 model still command a substantial US$9,999. Photo: © James Huang/Future Publishing

Felt is sometimes thought of as more of a value company rather than a performance one but that perception is turning around thanks to impressive hardware like this Shimano Dura-Ace Di2-equipped DA time trial machine. Photo: © James Huang/Future Publishing

Cervélo offers the S5 aero road frame in three different levels, all with the same aerodynamic performance. The top-end S5 VWD frameset costs US$5,900 but the standard version is half that at US$3,000. Photo: © James Huang/Future Publishing 

Cannondale’s SuperSix Evo Ultimate costs a whopping US$12,100 but more budget-minded consumers can still nearly the same performance in the US$5,500 SuperSix Evo 2 Red. Photo: © James Huang/Future Publishing

Giant Bicycles once built its business model on offering primarily mainstream bikes with exceptionally high value. Now the company also offers top-end race bikes costing upwards of US$10,000 like this Rabobank team-issued machine.

Photo: © James Huang/Future Publishing

By: Zdenko Kahlina
 
Going for a spinning class?
It’s winter and it’s cold. It was -20C this morning here in Edmonton. Very often I get asked (at work) what do we cyclist do in the winter time to stay in shape. The answer is simple: we ride rollers! Some people these days would better understand if I said: “I am going for a spinning class” – that’s how it’s called these days.

On the rollers

When the weather is less than ideal, training rollers allow you to get your bike ride in without having to venture outside. Training rollers allow you to use your own bicycle instead of an exercise bike. You can easily store the rollers vertically to save space in cramped living quarters. This piece of exercise equipment typically consists of a metal frame with three metal or PVC tubes. Two of the tubes are near each other on one end of the frame; the other lies at the opposite end. Keeping your bike balanced and going in a straight line require some initial effort, but with a little practice virtually anyone can succeed.

Roller training is the most effective method to maintain target heart rate while improving spin, balance and form. Plus, it’s the most fun!

Having your wife to accompany you during the ride helps motivation

How to ride on rollers
Rollers are viewed with suspicion, incomprehension or downright fear by many riders – a dangerous liability only suitable for hardcore experienced riders. But once mastered, they can provide a valuable addition to the training armory of any cyclist, regardless of experience. 

Instructions

• Lay the rollers in a doorway or close to the wall.

• Place the back wheel of your bicycle so it rests between the two rollers closest together. The front wheel should rest on the lone, third roller.
• Straddle your bicycle and check that your bicycle is in a relatively easy gear. To start, you want a gear that will allow you to pedal effortlessly.
• Grab onto the door frame (or wall) and sit on the bicycle seat. Adjust your pedals slightly by pedaling backward so they are both level with the floor. Practice balancing in this position, keeping your focus in front of you as if you were riding on the road.
• Pedal at a high cadence, changing gears as necessary. If you pedal too slowly, you will have difficulty keeping the bike tracking in a straight line.

Tips & Warnings

• Be sure your bike is adjusted properly for your size.
• When you are positioning your pedals, do not pedal forward. Pedaling forward will cause the rollers to spin.
• Do not look at the rollers while you are riding. Keep your focus straight ahead.
• Once you are comfortable mounting the bicycle, you can use the rollers in places other than the doorway.

• Wear a helmet even when riding your bicycle indoors. Balancing is difficult, at least initially, and there is a potential for falling off of the bike.

Other uses for rollers are: warming up for races
 

Technique 
Starting off: Put your bike in a low gear and have the rollers set up close to a solid object such as a wall or doorway. Make sure your wheels are in the middle of the rollers and, keeping one hand on the wall, begin pedaling at 60rpm. If you have a willing volunteer, an alternative is to have them hold your handlebar; you’ll be more balanced to start with and the learning process will be quicker.

Going straight: Look straight ahead. You don’t watch your front wheel on the road, so don’t on the rollers. Once you feel condemn in your balance and you’re staying central, let go of the wall, build up your cadence and you’re off. After a few sessions you’ll gain confidence and develop more advanced skills.

Mind on the job: Concentrate on what you’re doing – no watching TV at an odd angle or turning around to see who’s just come into the room… To stop, you need to simply slow down gradually and, before you come to a complete halt, reach out for the wall.

After an initial period to develop skill, riding rollers demands essentially the same concentration as road riding. Therefore, proper mental skills are constantly improved on rollers, unlike bad habits that can be promoted by stationary trainers. Add the tremendous benefits gained in balance, control, and bike feel while riding rollers, and you can see why we say, “ONLY real riders ride rollers”.

Roller rewards 
Rollers are best used to develop smoothness and pedaling efficiency – use them often enough and you’ll be able to ride on them no handed. Basically this helps you relax on the road as you have better stability. I think the only thing you can’t do on rollers is to accelerate really fast, as the belt will slip. During warmups/rests/cooldowns, I reach for the water bottle, alternate hands, try no-handed stuff, try spinning out a few times.

Cycling race on rollers some 40 years ago.

I doubt whether you’d be able to do anything over 60 minutes on rollers, use your trainer for endurance and interval sessions. You’ll probably get bored/sore nuts/ fall off and look like a goose. Also, it’s harder to watch TV than on a trainer as you have to keep the bike on the spinning bits.

Entertainment setup in my basement

For entertainment, I have music and an old TV down in the basement. I find the radio to be better than CD’s. With a CD, when it’s over, I think it acts like a psychological punctuation mark. If you’re feeling lazy, you might be tempted to quit after one. The radio is better, especially around 5-8pm, when the music seems to flow non-stop, and every song is different. The speed of the music or type of music doesn’t seem to bother me either. On the TV I usually watch old cycling tapes about Tour de France, or some professional classics from Europe. Watching TV helps me kill the time, and occupies my brain. Sometimes I imagine that it’s me climbing those big mountains in France, or sprinting to the finish line shoulder to shoulder with Mark Cavendish.

Zdenko’s old heavy set of rollers made of steel

Rollers are also good during the whole year. Other uses for rollers are: warming up for track races, warming up while you wait for your mates to turn up to go for a ride, warming your body after a freezing cold ride, laughing at your triathlon friends who can’t ride them…

Zdenko in the basement riding on the rollers

I train on rollers for about 1 to 1 1/2 hours, three times a week during the winter. I don’t buy the theory that you can’t train or develop on rollers. I have old, very heavy rollers, made of steel, but I like them better than the new models. They really give me feeling of being on the real road. I use my standard racing road bicycle, with a 53 chainring up front and a 11 – 23 rear cassette at the back. I also use 700 x 23 tires @ 120psi instead of thin racing tires. Between the gears, tire size, and roller diameter you work your butt off. I also stand on the rollers and this develops wonderful climbing skills because it makes you put your head forward, focus, balance, and again, you get so damn efficient in your circular pedal rotation that it becomes an art.

The Elite RealAxiom Trainer provides another option for winter training 

Example sessions – Here is how I do it:

TIER 1 – 10 min
Operate at approx 60% of your aerobic capacity (based on HR) – 10 min.
I call this warm-up.

TIER 2 – 11 min
Operate at approx 65-75% of your aerobic capacity (based on HR) – 10mins
Go all out (100% aerobic/anaerobic) – 60 sec.
No extra time for recovery. Go straight into Tier 3.

TIER 3 – 11 min
Repeat TIER 2.

TIER 4 – 15 min
Operate at >80% of your aerobic capacity (based on HR) – 9 min.
Go all out (100% aerobic/anaerobic) – 60sec.
Recovery – 5 min.

TIER 5 – 5 min
…all aboard the pain train!!
Go all out, for as long as possible…about 5 min or till vomiting ensues..
Recovery – 10 min

TIER 6 – 15 min
Recovery from Tier 5 -  additional 15 min. Operate at approx 65-75% of your aerobic capacity (based on HR). I call this warm-down period.

There are plenty of rollers out there. Here’s an idea of what you’ll get for your money…

Beginner-friendly: Elite Parabolic, £149.99

This adjusts to all solo bike sizes. The rough surface of the plastic drums offers more low speed stability than metal ones, and the fl anged ‘parabolic’ ends help prevent the wheels from wandering too, which boosts confidence. The large drums spin well and quietly but you’ll be topping out the gears at 60kph+ to get a properly punishing workout. Weight: 8.12kg. From: Elite / Madison (UK).

Improvers: Tacx Antares, £169.99

The telescopic design means compact storage and they’re light for pre-event use. The fixed frame makes a flat floor vital though. The height of the rollers and lack of steps makes starting a bit precarious but they’re smooth, and not as ‘icy’ as metal rollers. They spin up to speed and increase gyroscopic stability very quickly, and there’s an optional extra resistance kit. Weight: 6.7kg. From: Tacx / Fisher Outdoor Leisure (UK).

Experts: Kreitler Alloy 2.25in, £329

These are relatively light and fold for storage. The lack of end stops and ‘icy’ feel of the metal rollers is initially intimidating and the small size of the rollers means a higher resistance level than other rollers. There’s some tire noise and buzz on the rollers, but overall smoothness and longevity are excellent. Medium resistance 3in rollers are available, or 4.5in for easy spinning, plus fan, fly-wheel and front wheel stand. Weight: 7.52kg.

From: Kreitler / Nemesis Group (UK).

At the end, I’ll mention other option you have in case you don’t like rollers. As you might have noticed, my wife is using the “Real Axiom” electromagnetic trainer, which allows you to ride a real course in the comfort of your own home.

If you don’t like rollers, use the Elite RealAxiom Trainer

The Elite RealAxiom Trainer

The Elite RealAxiom Trainer is designed to be used in conjunction with the supplied user-friendly software. On your PC you get the option of selecting course toughness, profile and length and there are different race courses which come complete with riders-eye views as you pedal through the countryside and mountains. You can choose your favorite video course, compete against other Real Axiom owners or virtual competitors.

For me, I still prefer rollers…

From Italian Cycling Journal – Posted by Angelo Senza
 
Across the Atlantic for an Italian Swap Meet
John contributes this story of his trans-Atlantic trip to a swap meet in the Reggio Emilia region for cars, motorcycles, motor scooters and bicycles in March, 2011.

“I didn’t have credentials to enter on set-up day, Friday, but I thought I’d drive to the event at the fairgrounds to scope it out anyway. I knew that I’d be heading out very early Saturday morning, and it wouldn’t hurt to get familiar with the short drive, parking, etc.

I promptly got lost and was too proud to take the GPS, but a couple kids were eager to help me when I asked them if they spoke any English. My technique is to always ask someone “Parla Inglese?” when I approach them for directions so that when I ask my questions in (busted-up) Italian, the bar/expectations is low. The kids were happy to try to explain the route to the Fiera, and ended-up jumping in my Fiat Panda to show me the way. When I got to a location of reasonable self-sufficiency, they hopped out and I drove-off. As I looked out the rear mirror, I could see them laugh and smile, indicating that they had a blast helping this foreigner.

There were hundreds of vans and transporters parked everywhere outside of the gates, but I was able to find a parking spot in an area that seemed fairly close. My friend Vicenzo was setting up in building B, so I called him and told him that I was outside of the main gate- he came to get me and give me credentials so that I could see what was happening. There 3 huge buildings filled with vendors and outdoor areas equal in size to the 3 buildings. Most everyone had finished setting up and were draping tarps over their goods for the night.

The next morning I got up at 5:00 am to shower, eat, ask the desk clerk additional questions about how to get there since the route I took with the help of the kids was roundabout. When I showed him my GPS and said, just get me to via Gramsci he seemed optimistic, but when he tried to enter an address on that road, it didn’t work… I got worried. After several tries, it turns out that the GPS wanted this philosopher’s first name, and the desk clerk hadn’t remembered his grade school studies. He finally remembered that it was Antonio. So he entered “via Antonio Gramci” and I left.

I waltzed-in with my lanyard pass at 6:00 am. My friend’s table was still under wraps so I walked around to see what was stirring.

I stopped at an old guy’s table and asked about a few of his items including a very old Magistroni steel cottered crankset. It was marked simply “L. MAGISTRONI” without any circus tent. I’m pretty sure that in the 50’s, the “L” was dropped, so I nabbed this neat early example. He also had some shield style Campy gum hoods that were either original, or fantastic repros, so I bought some of those along with some early style Vittoria gum hoods. Another vendor had some nice Gnutti, Campy and Willier Trestina skewers for a reasonable price so I bought those too.

When I circled back to home base, my friend had an early Campy front der that was very expensive, but rare, rare, rare. He also showed me an original old Cinelli head badge and stem badge as well as a Cinelli headset and an ultra-rare “CINELLI” marked brakeset.

This batch of goodies was exactly what I came for- impossible to find anywhere and right up my alley. He wanted me to throw out a number, so I gave it some thought and suggested what I’d pay. I was not going to insult him with a low ball offer. He knows what this stuff is worth, and he has been good to me, so after some back and forth, we agreed on a price and I felt fulfilled.

Later in the day, I found a great tent outside, and the guy had hundreds of old hubsets. I fished-around and found 4 sets of very old FB small flange 36 hole hubs. These had FB logos that are subtly different from the later ones- they have much more detail in the feathers of the bird, and the typeface of “FB” is a little different. They were 100% new, so I bought them and when I got back to our hotel room, I checked the locknuts of one set- 1943!

This event was mostly exotic cars, motorcycles and scooters with only a smattering of bicycles. I used to be in to cool old cars before bicycles, so I enjoyed seeing all the great and exotic sports cars, and otherwise rare vehicles. Alfas, Ferraris, Lancias, Laborghinis, Maseratis, Fiats, Citroens, Renaults, etc., etc. There were incredible motorcycles too- really old ones, newer ones like some BMW’s that competed in Paris Dakar, cute Bianchi motorcycles, 6 cylinder Benellis, etc.

My wife didn’t come to the swap on Saturday, but I dragged her to it on Sunday. Shortly after we went in, we met a guy who recognized me from my checkered PEUGEOT jacket. His friend Brook Watts knew that we’d both be there, and mentioned that I’d be wearing that jacket. Rory Mason introduced himself (in English) and for the next few hours we had the greatest time walking the aisles and asking questions.

 Lucky for me, Rory is fluent in Italian and so my wife’s and my experience was enriched as we chatted with some wonderful, and extremely knowledgeable Italians. Rory has caught the old racing bicycle bug, and is expert in Galmozzi and Legnano… and Atala, and…

I felt like I had accomplished pretty much everything I set out to do on Saturday, so Sunday was going to be short for us, so that we could hit the road to the Cinque Terra for a couple days.…  Sunday night was reserved for carefully wrapping and packing all the parts into the suitcase for the trip home. Of course we expected to eat another great dinner somewhere!

We have been casually studying Italian at several community education classes as well as through interactive DVD’s. There is no question whatsoever that being able to speak the language, even a little bit, is important to have a more valuable experience. It is our experience that few Italians speak English well, but many speak it a tiny bit. This, however, is much better than when I go to Japan for swap meets- virtually none of the Japanese speak English… at all.

Combining the swap meet with a small family vacation is the reasonable thing to do, and we had a very successful week of it. I hope to attend future events like this and make more friends along the way!”

Posted by Angelo Senza:

http://www.italiancyclingjournal.blogspot.com/

By: Team Sky on Facebook
 
Future Proof: How the Common Bike is Poised for a High-Tech Reinvention
Three remarkable innovations are transforming the mechanics of the common bicycle. In fact, these new technologies may be the most significant developments in bike engineering since the original “safety” bicycle was invented at the end of the 19th century. Is your current two-wheeler even worth keeping? The following report should make you wonder.

Electronic Shifters
Given the infiltration of electronics into every aspect of our lives, the emergence of an electronic shifter is no surprise. Here’s how it works: Instead of using a mechanical shifting lever, a button sends a signal to the derailleur and activates a small motor that provides a fast, reliable gear shift.

A servo mechanism adjusts the positions of the front and rear derailleurs so they’re optimally aligned, producing maximum power-transfer efficiency. Electronic shifting can take a wired form, where the shift up/down signal is transmitted via cables, or a wireless form that uses multiple frequencies. The downsides are minimal. The most obvious is that if your battery runs out, you’re screwed. This said, Shimano estimates that the 7.4-volt battery in its Dura-Ace Di2 line of component shifters will last over 620 miles per charge.

Electronic shifting image courtesy of our friends over at cyclingnews.com

The other downside is price. The Di2 system costs $2,500, and it will likely be two years before the tech trickles into cheaper, mid-range kits. Nonetheless, cyclists are riding with electronic shifters today: George Hincapie rode a Trek Madone with electronic shifters in the 2009 Tour de France, and Trek already provides battery mounts and Di2 cable routing on its race-ready Madone frames. Campagnolo will release its electronic shifting kit in 2011.

 
Belt Drives
The traditional chain is one of the biggest weak spots on any bike. Increased force on a link chain produces strain on the links themselves. Over time, these links break—and once they break, you’re usualy hosed. Failure is accelerated by the dirt and grime that chains accumulate because of their much-needed lubrication. And constant wear and tear from grabbing and releasing gears doesn’t help a chain’s lifespan, either.

Trek’s drivetrain belt looks eerily similar to some we’ve seen in LEGO kits.

Enter the belt drive, which increases the efficiency of a bike’s power train while greatly extending its life. At its core, this is a simple piece of technology not unlike a conveyer belt. A smooth, contiguous piece of rubber or plastic-based material moves around two rotating gears. In early prototypes of bicycle belt drives, nubs down the center of the belt grab onto gears, and an internal shifting hub changes the gears.

In addition to increased power efficiency, the belt drive doesn’t need to be lubricated—there are no moving parts, and it’s not likely to break for the same reason. How close are we to seeing belt drives? Close enough that Trek has already developed the prototype pictured on this page. The only real downside, aside from scarce availability, is that a purpose-built frame is required because you can’t pop the belt drive off like you would on a normal bike.

Expect to see belt-driven bikes in mass production by the end of this year. It’s an ideal fit for a low-gear city bike.

Carbon Drive™ Technology
The carbon cords inside the patented Gates Carbon Drive™ belt offer, for the first time, the necessary tensile strength and high modulus to provide the smooth, clean, and long lasting ride advantage of a “belt” driven system in a bicycle application. The specially designed tooth pitch and meticulously engineered sprocket profile afford the belt efficiency equal to that of a standard chain, with the low tension necessary to prevent unnecessary bearing load on other components.

The super-light sprockets are finished with a new coating specifically formulated to provide unmatched durability even in abrasive conditions.

Already referred to as a “magic Item, that will change many of the bikes we ride,” Gates Carbon Drive™ offers a truly revolutionary technology that already has created an amazing amount of end-user interest and demand.

There are many size belts and sprockets to choose from to create your perfect ride: http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/

Continuously Variable Transmission
The biggest leap forward in bike design comes from a San Diego R&D shop called Fallbrook Technologies. Its innovation is the NuVinci transmission, a two-wheeler version of a CVT, or Continuously Variable Transmission, which already lends efficiency to hybrid automobiles.

On a traditional bike, you need to manually switch gears within a limited set of, say, 10 or 18 “speeds.” But with a NuVinci transmission, you’re given an infinite variety of gearing ratios—within a specified range, of course—to perfectly match your energy output to the incline of the road.

Link to NuVinci Hub on Youtube

Click here to view the video on YouTube.

CVTs use rotating and tilting balls positioned between the input and output components of a gearing system. This arrangement progressively varies the speed of the transmission, providing linear and essentially infinite gearing options. Compared to a traditional set of flat cogs, you also enjoy increased efficiency, as there is no loss of power during a shift.

You can buy a bike outfitted with NuVinci’s CVT today from Ellsworth Bikes. Me? I’m going to wait a little longer—I want all three new technologies working in concert on the same ride.

Published here:

http://www.maximumpc.com/article/columns/future_proof_how_common_bike_poised_high-tech_reinvention

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Source: John Whitney, BikeRadar
Just before the epic Milan-San Remo pro cycling race.
Just before the pros set off on the epic 298km Milan-San Remo, BikeRadar took a look at some of the bikes that would help take them there. 

One of the more eye catching was the Cervélo S3 of Thor Hushovd (Garmin-Cervélo), newly decorated in recognition of his win at the World Road Race Championships in Australia last year. The Norwegian rider’s Milan-San Remo was wrecked, however, when a crash 90km from the finish left him with a badly bruised hip and a broken front wheel.

Fabian Cancellara’s Trek Madone 6.9 SSL. Photo: John Whitney

Above is eventual runner-up Fabian Cancellara’s Trek Madone 6.9 SSL. He is riding for the newly formed Luxembourg outfit Leopard Trek after leaving Danish squad Saxo Bank with the Schleck brothers at the end of the 2010 season. He lost out in the sprint at San Remo to HTC-Highroad’s Matthew Goss, who was riding Specialized’s new McLaren Venge in its professional race debut.
The irony may not have been lost on Cancellara, who would have been on the same bike as Goss had he still been with the Danish team.

Matthew Goss’ winning Specialized McLaren Venge. Photo: John Whitney

Speaking of which, here is HTC-Highroad rider Matt Goss’s winning Specialized McLaren Venge. It features Shimano and PRO kit, an SRM power measuring system, HED wheels mounted with Continental tubulars and a Fi’zi:k saddle. It might be the last time we see this particular bike, as in future the bikes of HTC-Highroad will be painted in team colours.

Bradley Wiggins Pinarello Dogma 60.1. Photo: John Whitney

Bradley Wiggins’ Pinarello Dogma 60.1 also attracted our gaze, partly for its Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 and partly for its non-standard O.Symetric chain rings. Wiggins has used these for a few years, and is one of a few pros to do so.

The chain ring’s varying diameter is supposed to increase power output for the same perceived effort by producing a higher gear on the down stroke where a rider usually has more power. We didn’t see too many of these around on Saturday, but it obviously suits the Team Sky rider.

Robbie Hunter’s Trek Madone 6.9 SSL.

Focus_pozzato_600. 

Thor Hushovd’s Cervélo S3.

Fabian Cancellara’s Trek Madone 6.9 SSL.

S – Works Robert Kiserlovski (Cro) Astana

LOOK 695 SR_2011

FUJI_Geox-TMC.

Basso 2011 model

Rossin Zenith

This article first appeared on Bikeradar here.

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Gotta Comment?

If you’ve got a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send me an email or fill the comment fields bellow, with only requirements your name and email address. I might just publish you in glorious pixelated black & white! Comments may be edited for grammar, spelling and length, or just to make them better.

Send your comments to: zdenko@zkahlina.ca

By: John Wesley

The greatest challenge in developing a permanent exercise habit is finding motivation that lasts. It’s easy to get to the gym when you’re preparing for that big beach vacation or want to look great for your high school reunion. But what about the rest of the time?

For much of my life I followed a pretty consistent pattern:

1. Get a bit fat.
2. Start to hate the way I look.
3. Hit the gym with a vengeance for a few weeks.
4. Start to look noticeably better.
5. Smugly enjoy my new found vanity.
6. Lose motivation and stop working out for a few weeks.
7. Repeat from beginning.

Vanity, it turns out, isn’t a great longterm motivator for most people. It wasn’t until I associated exercise with rewards beyond physical appearance that I was able to get myself to the gym 5-6 times a week without any lapses.

 To help you bring consistency and enthusiasm to your exercise schedule, here are some powerful reasons to work out that have nothing to do with looking good.

 1. Testosterone

This one is mostly for the gents (sorry ladies) and it applies to weight training. Testosterone is the essence of manhood. When you lift weights and gradually increase the level of resistance, your muscles produce testosterone. This gives you the energy, stamina, and aggressiveness you need to take on the world.

On days after a big weight training work out, I’ve experience a significant increase in energy. I tend to pop out of bed (I’m usually groggy) and feel more vigorous over the course of the day.

2. Clarity and Concentration

An active body has been linked to an active mind. The more consistently you exercise, the less prone you’ll be to grogginess and lapses in concentration. As anecdotal evidence of this, my best cure for writer’s block has always been going for a long walk, run, or hitting the gym.

3. Reflection

Exercise is a time to let your mind unwind while your body does the work. Strangely, when you stop actively trying to solve a mental challenge, the solution often pops into your head. Exercise is an opportunity for your subconscious mind to put together the pieces.

4. Enjoyment

Working out needn’t be seen as a chore or obligation. There are tons of enjoyable ways to exercise. For example, if you live in a scenic area, going for a run or bike ride along a beautiful route can brighten things up. Since I moved to Los Angeles a couple months ago, running on the beach has gotten me out the door much more frequently.

Other great options include: using exercise as a chance to spend time with friends and family, playing a sport or game, striving to achieve new personal bests, week after week.

5. Cleansing

Have you ever gone a couple weeks without exercise and noticed that you begin to sweat an exorbitant amount? That’s because sweat, along with toxins, tends to build up over time. Sweating regularly through exercises removes these toxins and will help you feel more comfortable.

6. Better Sleep

Studies have shown that exercise improves sleep. I love my sleep, so this is big for me.

7. Longer Life

When you choose to exercise, you’re making an investment, not just in your present physical appearance, but in the rest of your life. People who exercise regularly live longer and stay healthier into old age. If not for yourself, consider the family members that love and depend on you.

8. Stress Relief

Exercise has also been shown to reduce stress. This is a combined result of the benefits of cleansing, reflection, and a physical outlet for frustration.

9. Superior Strength and Endurance

About 4 years ago I went through a rough stretch where I gained 15-20 pounds in only a few months. Being unfit drastically changed the way I could move my body. It threw off my balance and made everyday tasks more difficult and uncomfortable. By exercising regularly, you’ll be better able to live and act, and in the event of an emergency, seize the moment.

10. Self Confidence

The sum of all these benefits is self confidence. (And, yes, looking good will help here too.) Greater self confidence is drives success, so its value can’t be underestimated. Exercise and fitness are an enormous part of reaching your potential.

By John Wesley

The Benefits of a Cycling Diary

New cycling season is upon us again. It’s time to begin training for the new season and prepare a new diary. You do keep a diary, right?

There are many benefits of keeping a cycling diary. When I started cycling as a kid in the mid 1960s, the thought of keeping a cycling diary never crossed my mind. I was just having fun riding. This approach changed as I learnt more and more about sport of cycling.  

I was however, training with my older brother who was keeping diary of all trainings and races that he rode. He was very detailed in his diary, never missing a single ride. After a while I bought a notebook and started my own diary. I began to write about my rides in a simple school notebook. Remember, that was the era before the computers. I recorded the date, average speed, today’s route, distance and a note about how the ride went and who I rode with. I was also manually calculating my average speed (no bike computer at the time).

These days serious athletes are enthusiastic diary writers, and use them to record every detail of their training and racing. Everything from miles ridden to heart rates achieved to cereals eaten for breakfast is recorded. Once written down, this information can be used by the athlete, their coach and their sports scientist to see what they’ve done right, where they’ve messed up and, most importantly, to plan their next steps. It’ll work for you, too.

A study of the training diaries of elite US marathoners who qualifies for the 2004 Olympic trials showed that although their mileage, number of sessions per week and use of resistance training varied, all carried out between two thirds and three quarters of their weekly training at below race pace [1]. This mirrors data from other endurance sports such as skiing [2], rowing [3], running [4], swimming [5] and cycling [6], and shows that consistent, race pace training doesn’t equal success. So, if your race results and training times aren’t what you’re expecting check back to see if you’ve been going at it too hard.

As well as quantitative data, the qualitative data contained in your training diary is a wealth of information. The notes and stats you keep will allow you to unearth vital clues that will explain many a performance mystery. Did a strong ride coincide with a period when you were feeling particularly happy? Has everyday life ever stopped you from training or competing well and how can you prevent it happening again? If tests are good but races aren’t then its time to look at your ability to focus, battle nerves and push yourself to the limit.

Use of retrospective analysis helps you to discover what works and what doesn’t. Many teams and sports federations are now looking at professional athletes and their career development. Studies over a season [7] or during the build up to a record performance [6,8] give lessons on how to prepare. It’s a valuable insight into what the perfect recipe for success should contain.

Monitoring of elite level riders usually stays in the filing cabinets of teams or national squads, though some data does emerge on monitoring of elite level riders [9], which shows that plenty of miles are logged before attempting to”get fast”and that at least two thirds of preparation needs to be endurance and technique based riding. If your diary shows too much speed work or not enough miles logged in the winter, perhaps you could follow the experts and get more in tune with what is known to be a highly effective training regime.

 Up to this day I am keeping diary in the Excel spreadsheet.

Points to Remember

1. Monitor your riding now to see data in the future. Write down as much as you can – no matter how trivial it seems.

2. Testing performance and power is vital to help assess fitness, form and functional ability. Going on how you feel is fine up to a point, but matching feelings with facts makes understanding the regular ups and downs easier.

3. Just as the more open teams show that there’s no secret to success, you need to be honest with yourself so that you don’t fall into the trap of thinking there is a supplement or piece of kit that will make up for poor training.

Reflections:

1. Monitoring of your health and fitness is important to ensure you have some basis on which to make decisions about rest, ideal volume of training and when you are in peak form. Starting today, you must have a diary and use this to learn how you best train and race. Add in data such as lab or at-home test data, race performances and heart rate data.

As retrospective feelings are often at odds with the reality of data you must have both to look back on.The devil is in the detail.

Tip: use an indoor RAMP test or get regular lab testing that gives you a power-HR relationship and max-power output figure

2. Volume and intensity of riding. Did you do at least 66 per cent base-building work? Was the quality training hard enough? Did you taper into important events by reducing volume but maintaining intensity? TIP:Take this data and use it to adjust your plan for this coming winter accordingly – work on any weaknesses you find.

3. Your equipment choices can reduce drag, drop bike weight and help in achieving a peak performance. Note what you use and search out reliable data on equipment that gives you the ability to choose what works best.

Tip: if it appears too good to be true, it probably is

For my trainings these days I am using one of the best bicycle computers: Garmin EDGE 705. Navigator. Edge 705 pushes you to do your best, then shows you the way back. This is GPS-enabled cycle computer. You can get heart rate, cadence, turn-by-turn directions (data card is preloaded with maps, power data — the works. Even share your data with other Edge 705 buddies after your ride. All wireless with a color display, this is no ordinary cycle computer.

In the end, you might ask what have I learned. One thing that I learned is that over that time my average speed has not decreased much, if at all. That told a friend (I did not have the perspective to understand until I was told) that my conditioning was pretty good as I was older and had not slowed down (much). He told me that on a day when I was whining about how slow I felt that day.

Keeping a diary also helps me understand when I am having a good day (and when I am not). I have learned that there are days where I will feel strong and others when I won’t. I am pretty competitive (just with myself) and want great days everyday. It just is not going to happen.

Keep a diary and learn about yourself. You will be pleased.

By: Zdenko

Bikes Of The Giro d’Italia
By: Zdenko Kahlina 

I thought it would be interesting to show you bikes used at this year Giro d’Italia. I put together a gallery of the bikes currently in use at the Giro d’Italia. We’ll keep adding bikes throughout the race, so check back often to see more pictures of these awesome machines. 

To kick things off, here’s Fabian Cancellara’s new Specialized time trial bike:

Next are the Focus time trial bikes used by Milram:

Their tension-disc wheels have a web of flexible carbon spokes covered by a tight, thin skin. The brand name (Lightweight) says it all:

Eight Cervélo riders, including Carlos Sastre, used the already proven Cervélo P3. The only rider on the new Cervélo P4 TT bike was Lithuanian national time trial champion Ignatas Konovalovas.

Pro bike: Carlos Sastre’s Cervélo TestTeam Cervélo S3

As a former CSC rider, Sastre was familiar with Cervélo frames. He moved to the team of Bjarne Riis for the 2002 season and has ridden the technology-intensive bikes ever since CSC switched to them the following year. Unlike other riders on the team, though, Sastre has always opted for frames with standard profile tubes rather than more aerodynamic ones such as the Soloist and the SLC-SL, starting with the prototype Cervélo R2.5 – the company’s first all-carbon frame – all the way through to the latest R3-SL.

Sastre had cited the R3-SL’s lighter weight (approximately 150g lighter than the SLC-SL), slightly snappier acceleration and easier handling characteristics in wind to explain his preference, which was also sometimes shared by the Schleck brothers last season. However, this year he’s finally made the move to the SLC-SL’s successor, the S3, and is finally on aero tubing.

For Garmin-Slipstream, only David Zabriskie is using Dura-Ace 7970 electronic derailleurs, which are on both his road and time trial bikes:

 Danilo Di Luca has a new De Rosa King 3 RS at this year’s Giro that is supposedly 15 percent lighter and 18 percent stiffer than the current King 3 by virtue of an upgraded carbon fiber mix and new lay-up schedule.:

Michele Scarponi has a custom paint job on his Guerciotti:

Not to be outdone, fellow Italian Gilberto Simoni went custom as well:

And Silence-Lotto’s Jonas Ljungblad got a customized paint job to celebrate his Swedish national championship:

A fleet of Saxo Bank Specialized S-Works Tarmac SL2s ready for the day’s events:

Pro bike: Ivan Basso’s Cannondale Slice Hi-Mod Giro d’Italia

Basso’s new machine sheds over 0.5kg and is now a much more reasonable 8.34kg (18.39lb).  The biggest chunk is lost in the crankset, which has swapped from the previous SRM solid-machined aluminium boat anchor and threaded Shimano Octalink bottom bracket - not to mention the requisite shell adapter - to a more svelte Vision Trimax Carbon aero unit complete with a proper BB30 shell and bearings.

Ivan Basso’s Cannondale looks sharp:

Lance Armstrong’s Astana Trek Madone, road bike:

Pro bike: Filippo Pozzato’s Katusha Ridley Damocles Pi

Filippo Pozzato (Katusha) came oh-so-close to victory in this month’s stunning Paris-Roubaix finale, desperately chasing - but not quite able to catch - a fleeing Tom Boonen (Quick Step) after a dramatic series of late crashes found the Belgian star soloing into the Roubaix velodrome for victory for a third time.

Still, Pozzato’s second place finish was a superb result for the new Katusha team along with their Belgian sponsor, Ridley, who built a special Damocles Pi just for the Italian rider. Unlike some other custom machines in the Paris-Roubaix peloton that typically sported generous tyre clearances, longer wheelbases and the like, this was no dedicated cobbles bike.

Lance Armstrong custom Tour of Italy bicycle

May 13, 2009  

Take a look at this beautiful custom bike that was made for Lance Armstrong for this year’s Tour of Italy!

The bike is a Trek Madone with custom graphics by Shepard Fairey. It’s absolutely gorgeous and I’m so glad that Lance decided to post these pics on his Twitter.

According to Lance, he actually received two custom Trek bikes for the Tour of Italy and you can see a picture of the other bike here:

The black bike was designed by Kenny Scharf.

Check out some more pictures below:

Armstrong’s mainstay of the race, his otherwise stock Madone 6.9, has been painted by Shepard Fairey to draw attention to the Livestrong foundation, the reason Armstrong has returned to racing, as well as pay homage to Italy’s rich architectural heritage. Meanwhile, Armstrong’s TTX displays a ‘lightspeed’ look by Kenny Scharf.

Both bikes will be auctioned at Nike’s Stages, a global travelling anti-cancer show organized to benefit the Lance Armstrong Foundation, when it visits New York on 2 October 2009.

Safe Group Rides

By Zdenko Kahlina
Amateur cyclist

Most cyclists have ridden in some type of group ride or paceline formation. Usually, each person in a paceline takes a turn riding in front, breaking the wind. Many cyclists, however, overlook the most important principles of riding in a paceline. Many of those principles also apply to a less formal group ride situation.

So I’m writing this to elucidate some of the finer points of pack riding and hopefully make our cycling outings more safe and productive.

Safety has to be the number one concern when we ride on public roads. And the most important consideration is the responsibility of the lead rider to make all following riders aware of any impending danger. This means that the lead rider of any group should consider the lack of unobstructed vision behind, and therefore, the slower reaction time of the following riders. The lead rider must attempt to avoid all potholes, cracks, rocks, and road debris by taking a wide berth around these hazards. The lead rider should also make the followers aware by pointing toward the location of the obstacle and/or yelling (this is necessary to be heard over wind noise) a warning as well. Of course these hazards may include any other vehicle, on the roadway, or entering the roadway, from side streets and driveways. Due to sand, potholes, cracks and other road debris as well as the potential for vehicles to pull out suddenly, I recommend that as a group we ride farther out from the edge of the road than we would while riding alone.

The principles of paceline etiquette are designed to keep the group’s speed consistently high and to avoid accidents. The essential purpose of the paceline is efficiency. In other words, the group is trying to keep its speed consistently higher than any single member of the group could maintain on his or her own. This efficiency is possible because it is as much as 30% easier to ride behind someone, where the wind resistance is considerable lower. A secondary but important goal is to avoid the accidents that can arise when cyclists ride within inches of each other.

When riding on open public roads, a single file formation is the only acceptable way to move as a group. Of course, there are times when we are riding on county back roads and form a nice double paceline (side by side formation) but this can only be done when we know there are no vehicles passing. Needless to say, this is a very common occurrence on Alberta roads. Distance between riders is another important issue. I recommend a spacing of half a wheel length between riders normally and much more distance on very fast stretches or downhills. The drafting advantage of a lesser distance than this is negligible, but the risk of overlapping wheels in our only moderately experienced group is substantial.

It is each rider’s responsibility to maintain the smooth flow of the group. When riding in a paceline, sudden movements of any single rider can be disastrous. This means that abrupt braking, swerving, and any type of erratic riding is always a dangerous, poor technique. When the lead rider is careful to make all the followers aware of what’s coming sudden reactions are seldom necessary.

Each rider in the paceline is responsible for maintaining his or her place in that line. This means that if you let a gap open up everyone behind will be “dropped” either temporarily or for the rest of the ride. And, they will be completely within their rights to verbally and physically abuse you after the ride. Many cyclists, however, seem to forget that the essential purpose of their formation is efficiency. To illustrate some common mistakes, consider whether the following scenario sounds familiar.

Imagine that you are riding along in a single paceline, and you are the third rider in the line. The rear wheel of the rider in front of you is about 12 inches from your front wheel, and you are enjoying the draft. Suddenly, you notice that the rider in front of you, who has just taken the front position in the wind, is now 5 feet ahead of you. This front rider’s sudden increase in speed has caused a gap, and when you notice the gap, you put forth a hard effort to close the gap, and so does each rider behind you, like an accordion. Then, this same front rider moves very gradually to the side. You wonder whether it is your turn to pull or whether the front rider is just wandering a bit.  After a long pause and a bit of a slow down, you decide you are supposed to pull. When your turn pulling on the front is done, you want to move to the side so that the rider behind you can assume the front position, but the rider who was previously in front of you in the line is still right there on your side; he has not yet moved to the back of the line.  You now begin to tire of pulling and gradually slow down.  Finally, it is safe for you to move to the side.  The rider behind you accelerates rapidly (because of the previous slow downs), and the entire scenario starts over again with closing gaps . . .

Awareness regarding traffic flow is invaluable. Even before I pull-off the front of the paceline, I always listen traffic behind me to be aware of the approaching cars. Than just before I pull-off the front I always take a quick look back over my shoulder to check for passing car. If there is a vehicle coming up fast, or at all, I wait to swing off (move to the back of the line).

While leading the paceline, each rider must make his or her own best judgment regarding how long to lead. The proper way to pace yourself is to maintain the same speed as the former rider at the front, pulling longer if you feel strong, shorter if you can’t keep the pace. If the speed is obviously beyond your capability, then you should stay at the back and tell each rider to ‘pull-in’ in front of you as they move toward the back of the paceline for their wind-break. Of course, if you are the one fixed to the back of the line, after the ride you may be victim of finger pointing and name calling with disparaging terms such as: Wheelsucker, wimp, or girly-man. Ouch! But we Albertans are far too sophisticated and restrained to ever say such things, right?

When a rider in front of you is clearly getting dropped, a quick decision is required whether to stay where you are, or “jump-across” the gap before it gets too big. If the group is moving very fast, the latter may not be an option. This is known as the “crunch” time in bike racing terminology – when the pace is so fast that the paceline string breaks, the riders who can keep the pace end up in the lead group, and those that can’t are “off the back.” The rider who is “going backwards” (struggling) and perhaps letting the gap open up has no obligation to tell those behind that he’s “losing it” perhaps because if he’s really doing all he can to hold on, oxygen is at a premium, and speaking is not an option. It’s the responsibility of the riders behind to assess and respond to the situation in this case.

There are many other fine points of importance regarding pack riding but most are beyond the scope of this article. So, I’ll just mention a few of the key tips:

Here are few main principles of paceline etiquette:

• KEEP YOUR SPEED STEADY WHEN YOU ASSUME THE FRONT POSITION.  In the scenario above, the riders in the paceline were constantly closing gaps.  Their paceline looked like an accordion.  Eventually, this gap closing effort wears down the riders in the paceline. To avoid this problem, the front rider must watch the speed on his computer just before his turn at the front, and then maintain that speed within one-half mph or one kmh. If the speed of the paceline needs to be increased, wait until you have been pulling on front for several strokes, and then SLOWLY increase the speed. A gradual increase in speed will avoid gaps and help keep you (and everyone behind you) fresh.
• WHEN YOU ARE FINISHED PULLING ON THE FRONT, MOVE OFF TO THE SIDE WITH A CRISP AND SAFE MOVEMENT.  In the scenario above, the front rider very slowly wandered to the side, making it unclear whether he was finished on the front.  A more deliberate movement to the side (after checking your path to be sure it is safe) will keep the paceline flowing smoothly.
• AFTER YOU HAVE PULLED OFF OF THE FRONT, SLOW DOWN IMMEDIATELY.  This principle may seem intuitive, but it is amazing how often this principle is ignored.  After moving to the side, you must immediately slow down (soft pedal) so that the next rider can move off of the front without bumping into you and/or without waiting for you to get out of the way.  Of course, you also must make sure that your decrease in speed does not cause you to “back” into a rider behind you who has not yet rejoined the line.
• When a rider changes from a sitting to standing position on a hill for instance, his or her bike will suddenly move backwards as much as a foot-and-a-half. This is a temporary reduction in forward momentum due to a body position shift toward the front of the bike. Beware of overlapping his or her wheel when this happens!
• It’s generally best to match gearing/cadence in a group, but sometimes the experienced rider will gear “down one” to save energy while drafting and gear “up one” when they “hit the front” for extra power and top end speed.
• Riders tend to let a much larger gap open up between cyclists when cornering, so with each position back from the lead rider increased proportionally, the total distance from engine to caboose can double or even triple. This means that the further back you are after the corner, the harder you will have to work to “get back on” the back of the paceline.
• For subtle speed reductions in a fast moving paceline, it is possible to simply move from behind the “wheel” ahead of you rather than braking. To do this, just move to one side or the other (when there’s space) thus slowing as you lose some of the drafting effect.
• When there is a crosswind, the best draft is obtained by moving laterally from directly behind the wheel ahead, to the downwind side. How far ‘off center’ depends on the exact direction and speed of the wind, but I can tell you that in a huge crosswind I’ve spent many a road race or team time trial with my front wheel even with the cranks of the rider ahead of me – drafting efficiently.

Beware of any slippery or loose surface: gravel, snow, ice, leaves, oil patches, wet manhole covers and crosswalk markings. Avoid these, or ride over them slowly. Don’t turn, brake or accelerate. Be ready to put a foot down for balance.

Check behind yourself for traffic, then cross a diagonal railroad crossing at a right angle.

Be especially careful of diagonal railroad crossings, trolley tracks, a row of raised lane-line dots or a step between the shoulder and the travel lane. Any of them can push your front wheel to the side and sweep your bike out from under you. When you can’t avoid them, cross them as nearly as possible at right angles.
      Beware of steel-grid bridge decks, which, especially when wet, will steer your bike parallel to the gridding, making balancing difficult. Test a grid deck at a low speed, and walk or use the bridge sidewalk if necessary.
      Any bump, rock or pothole more than an inch high can squash your bicycle’s tires flat against the rims, damaging the wheels. Avoid the bumps if you can, and walk your bike if the going gets too rough.

Remember, concentration and awareness of what’s happening around you is everything while riding so ride safely by expecting the unexpected!