By: Chris Kitching

Croatia’s capital is a cultural hotspot
Bleary-eyed from an early morning six-hour train ride and staring blankly at a tram system map like it’s an ink blot, I start to wonder if this episode is off to a disastrous start of Griswold proportions.

Trams in Zagreb are blue – favorite local color

  Sveti Duh, Savski gaj, Harambasiceva. Hieroglyphics would be easier to decipher than these tram stop names at this moment. Overwhelmed and impatient in the rain because of a lack of sleep, culture shock, foreign language, and absence of fellow tourists — which novice traveler hasn’t been there?

 The question is, how do you escape before your boil over? In this case, it was one of Zagreb’s finest ambassadors who scooped my girlfriend and I from this predicament — a young English-speaking woman who recognized two fish out of water and went out of her way to approach and assist. 

St. Mark’s Church in the Upper Town

Interpreter
Unsure which tram to recommend, the woman led us to an information booth, acted as an interpreter, and led us back to the tram stop and told us which one to catch. Crisis averted. The people of Croatia’s capital would put out a few more fires for us in the next 72 hours as we found our way around its tangled streets in what turned out to be a pleasant and surprising visit.

Zagreb is vibrant, comfy and cosmopolitan — a cultural hotspot with an abundance of museums, cafes, historic sites, parks and good shopping, and a mix of architectural influences. Old meets new in its medieval-like “old town” or Upper Town (Gornji Grad). More on that later. 

Zagreb – panoramic view of the city and its mountain Sljeme

Typical street in Zagreb

With one million citizens, Zagreb is Croatia’s largest city. Many speak at least a little bit of English. The tram system, it turns out, is easy to navigate once you pick up a map and find your bearings.

Before we embarked on a two-week trip to Europe, which included stops in Munich and Vienna, most friends and relatives asked, “Why Zagreb?” Some didn’t know where to find it on a map, lending credence to its reputation as an overlooked city.

“Because it’s out of the way and not as expensive as other cities,” I replied.

The latter part of that explanation isn’t as true as it used to be. Prices for most things are catching up to Western Europe as Croatia — birthplace of the necktie and ballpoint pen — prepares to join the European Union and shed its Kuna for the Euro. Food, alcohol (how does a pint of beer for $2 or less sound?) and souvenirs, however, remain a bargain. 

Cibona tower – local basketball team headquarters

Geography is to blame for Zagreb being lesser-known. Flocks of tourists bypass it for Croatia’s sunny beaches on the Adriatic coast or central European cities such as Budapest.

First impressions of Zagreb, which attracts about half a million visitors annually, can be underwhelming but don’t let that deter you or veil its true beauty and charm. Rolling in on a train, the immediate scenery is dull — cluttered yards or vacant lots, tiny homes and bleak colors.

“Zagreb?” asks a Croatian woman on the train. She recommended we visit a coastal city instead. Go figure.

Once we finally boarded that tram, we escaped Lower Town (Donji Grad) and entered a drab-looking neighborhood filled with rows of communist-era apartments or shops. Graffiti covers every grey concrete wall. 

The King Tomislav square

In many cities, this is a sign of a crime-ridden no-go zone. In Zagreb, it’s the norm and it doesn’t reflect the social status of the law-abiding apartment dwellers. These simplistic apartments in soul-leeching grey were built when Croatia, now a republic, was part of the former Yugoslavia. Croatia’s secession led to a deadly war in the 1990s. Zagreb was mostly untouched but emotional wounds remain.

Ban Jelacic monument

The best place to start the day is Ban Jelacic Square (Trg Bana Jelacica), the heart of the city. It’s within walking distance to all major attractions. During a break on our second day, it was this square where we grabbed a gigantic slice of pizza and soda for $3, sat down in 20 C weather that is unusually warm for late October, and engaged in people-watching. 

Zagreb in winter

The square is crawling with people, all of them locals. Tourists are scarce at this time of year. People spill out of the overcrowded trams. Young women strut with confidence, young men take notice, a senior feeds a crush of pigeons, and men in suits scurry to work. This is the spot to arm yourself with a map and comfortable pair of walking shoes and head out at your own pace or join a walking tour so you don’t miss anything.

To the north is Upper Town, a pedestrian-friendly area with cobblestone streets and red-tile roofs. It overflows with history. 

Upper Town attraction – Stone Gate

Stops must include Zagreb Cathedral and colorful St. Mark’s Church and square (home to the parliament building). For a panoramic view, visit the observation deck of the 13th-century Lotrscak watchtower. Visit at noon when its cannon is fired daily.

Dolac Market, steps away from Ban Jelacic Square, is a lively place that is olfactory heaven. Consider it an outdoor farmer’s market on steroids. Fresh vegetables, fruits, eggs, cheese and fish are brought in daily. 

Dolac market 

Flowers are sold on the street

Of interest to tourists is the souvenirs — crystal, hand-made crafts, soccer scarves, and other knick-knacks. Vendors are willing to barter, so let ’em have it.

Nearby, we found a decent restaurant, Pivnica Medvedgrad, specializing in its own brew, sausage and pasta. A filling plate of pasta and a pint of beer sets you back $6.

More modern Lower Town is south of the square and home to Zagreb’s collection of museums (archeological, arts and crafts, naive art), galleries and theatres (of those, the Croatian National Theatre is the crown jewel). 

Ban Jelacic Square at night – Zagreb downtown

For shopping, go to the boutiques and name-brand stores of Ilica, a street dividing the upper and lower towns. Or, take a 20-minute tram ride to the south, crossing Sava River, to Avenue Mall in “new” Zagreb. For women, there’s trendy stores like Top Shop and Zara. For men, you can have a beer in the food court. Did I mention beer is inexpensive here?

Zagreb’s grey buildings are countered with its colorful parks. Its gem, 316-hectare Maksimir Park, lies to the east.

New modern buildings

Away from bustle
Maksimir is an ideal place to burn a few hours. Away from the hustle and bustle of central Zagreb, it’s easy to feel alone here. Stroll the paths, paddle a canoe on a man-made lake, sip a drink at the outdoor cafe, or take in a free outdoor concert, depending on the season.

Or, drop by the animal kingdom at Zagreb Zoo, located within the park. The grand attraction is two African lions but there are more than 200 species. The zoo was a bit of a concern, however, because some animals are in aging, cramped enclosures. 

Arena – new sports center

The $6 admission is cheaper if you buy a Zagreb Card, providing unlimited travel on public transportation for 24 hours ($13.50) or 72 hours ($20), and discounts at museums, shops and restaurants. We bought our cards at our hostel but not once did a tram operator ask to see our cards or a ticket.

It’s tough to measure a city’s inhabitants in three days but I gathered the people of Zagreb are friendly, laid-back and very proud. Obesity doesn’t seem to be a problem here. So, it may not have white-sand beaches or glistening blue waters, but our answer to our prodding relatives and friends and the lady on the train remains the same: “Why not Zagreb?”

Lake Jarun

More pictures from Zagreb are available here:

http://zkahlina.ca/eng/photo-albums/?album=5&gallery=1

By: Zdenko Kahlina 

I thought you would like to see few pictures of my home town Zagreb, at Christmas time. The main square, streets, shops… everything is decorated throughout the holiday season.

Zagreb saw decorations and lighting going up ahead of the Christmas and New Year’s festivities. An advent wreathe and a manger made of cubes were set up on the main Ban Jelacic Square alongside a Christmas tree. The tree that adorns Zagreb’s main square – a 18-metre spruce – is believed to be one of the most beautiful Christmas trees so far.

Advent in the Heart of the City is a traditional happening which leads up to Christmas.

In the very Zagreb city center, at Ban Jelačić Square, various musical events and performances bring the spirit of Advent and Christmas to the citizens of Zagreb and their guests.

Throughout the entire month of December, those who find themselves in the main square will be entertained by various cultural and artistic groups, children’s choirs, dance groups, concerts, arts and traditional crafts workshops, all under the watchful eye of Father Christmas.

Zagreb officially kicks off its festive season with the lighting of the first Advent candle at Manduševac Well. As this year’s program is indeed varied and rich, it is extremely difficult to single out any particular event, but you can be sure there will be a lot of concerts and entertainment for every age and interest.

Source: Zagreb Tourist board

Dance Along at Zrinjevac Park.
Do you dance? Do you ever, even for a moment, wish to go back to the past? Zagreb time machine will take you to the world of music and customs of times long gone, where tradition is built into space, sounds and people.

Music Pavilion in Zrinjevac Park

Only a few minute walk from central Ban Josip Jelačić Square takes you to Zrinjevac, a beautiful park full of flowers, green area and tradition. Every Saturday from 11.00 to 13.00 h, from spring to autumn, in the Music Pavilion which has been standing there ever since 1891 you can enjoy waltzes and marches, musical numbers from operettas, Italian canzone’s, jazz or evergreen… And another thing, if you want-put on or just imagine a crinoline or a tailcoat, stick a flower in your button-hole and dance, dance…

The visitors who come dressed in the most original costume from the 19th or 20th century, as well as the best dance couple, will have the opportunity to win a weekend trip for two! Prizes will be awarded at the last Promenade Concert in September.

Original costume from the 19^th century

Original costumes from the 19^th century

Original costumes from the 19^th century

Promenade Concerts
If you enjoy the sounds of jazz, rock or the rhythm of swing, and feel like giving it a whirl on the dance podium to the sounds of old hits, we are inviting you to the Promenade Concerts at Zrinjevac Park. This month’s concerts will feature a very attractive program, every Saturday between 11 a.m. and 1 p.m., at the music pavilion that was built in 1891.

Apart from the legendary Vanja Lisak Trio, among the performers scheduled to appear this month is Zdenka Kovačićek, a Croatian musician with an exquisite voice, who will perform a repertoire of unforgettable jazz music. On 11 July, the Sick Swing Orchestra will take you back to the 1940′s with their swing, jazz, and slow-rock tunes. A band of academic musicians, called Jewsters, will perform a program of traditional Jewish music on July 18th.

Promenade Concerts in the Music Pavilion

Symbol of Zagreb – Red umbrellas… and beautiful women!

Red umbrellas – they are called Shestine Umbrellas

In Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, there is a practical and representative souvenir – red umbrella. This umbrella is called Shestine Umbrella (Croatian: Šestinski kišobran), which can be easily found on the Dolac Market and on the streets. The Shestine Umbrella is featured by several colored lines on the edge of the red umbrella and its big size. So it is a “large-sized” umbrella.

Walter Neugebauer and the Cadillac Band will play the greatest rock hits on July 25th, while on August 1st you will be able to dance along to the sounds of evergreens, performed by the Sweet Swing Orchestra and Božidar Matti. The preferable dress code for the Promenade Concerts includes clothes from the 19th and the first half of the 20th century, because the person that wears the most imaginative costume could win a weekend trip for two. There will also be an award for the best dance couple at the end of the concert season.

Zrinjevac, or Nikola Šubić Zrinjski Square, is the oldest and most beautiful park in Zagreb’s lower city. In the 19th century it was the centre of old Zagreb, in the full and real sense of the words. On account of its exceptional beauty as a park, it has been extolled in many poems and has been written about by the most famous writers of that time. There, in all seasons, photographers and painters alike found inspiration for their work, and the people of Zagreb found tranquillity and rest in the shade of the plane trees and in the oases of flowers and greenery.

The 19th century costumes

From the end of the 19th century, when the large estate owner, Eduard Prister, donated the music pavilion to the city and decided to put it in Zrinjevac Park, many things have changed. However, today the plane trees of Zrinjevac Park still offer shade, there are still flowers and greenery, and tranquillity and rest can still be found. Today also, every Saturday, as it was more than a hundred years ago, lovers of waltzes, marches and other light music have the chance to really enjoy themselves.

Vera and Zdenko on a Carriage ride

Horse Carriage rides in Zrinjevac Park

Vera and Zdenko on a Carriage ride

The Promenade Concerts in Zrinjevac Park are a part of the culture and tradition of this city. Many generations have grown up with the games and companionship around the pavilion, accompanied by the sound of waltzes which filled the whole area.

This tradition is continued today by the Zagreb Tourist Board and The Kings Of The Street Band.

Only two or three minutes stroll along Praška Street from the noisy and bustling Ban Jelačić Square, we offer you a chance to return to the past and to join history, culture and tradition in our own Zagreb style, as well as that touch of liveliness that you deserve. To you, the esteemed people of Zagreb, and the guests of our city, we offer a lifetime musical experience for all generations.

Today’s concerts will certainly not be performed by the military band of the 101st regiment, as in 1891, but on no account should you miss the brilliant concerts of the Croatian Military Orchestra. Today, possibly they will not perform Mascagni, as they did more than one hundred years ago, but the Beatles. Aren’t they classics too?

Details of the programme will be on these web pages, in the media and during the concerts. Programme leaflets will be available in the Tourist Information Offices on Ban Jelačić Square and in Zrinjevac Park.

Horse Carriage rides in Zrinjevac Park

Zagreb has a big heart

Source:

http://www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr/?id=335&l=e

By Zdenko Kahlina
 
Zagreb is capital city of Croatia
I’ve been living in Canada for more than 20 years now, but I always return to my home town Zagreb and never have enough of it! Zagreb is my city, because I was born there. I carry so many memories, that where ever I go around the town, something always reminds me of something from the years when I was growing up on these streets – good old memories…

Panoramic picture of Zagreb

Unfortunately I do not have much family left in Zagreb any more, but I do have lots of friends with whom I stayed in touch throughout all those years (thanks to emails!). There is nothing more beautiful than to walk on the main street Ilica, or “Trg Bana Jelacica”, Radićevoj or old “Tkalca” street, and come across some old friend! And then you stop at a little coffee bar, have a beer or “gemisteka” (vine with mineral water). First thing they always ask me is: “How are you? How much (money) do you make?… yeah, it’s easy for you living in Diaspora, here we struggle!” (this last comment always annoys me big time!). But than, I realize it’s a work day, and he is with me having a coffee instead of being at work! Everybody seems to have plenty of free time and they are not under pressure to work hard.

Streets of Zagreb – Old Town 

But for a tourist, the Croatian capital is well worth a stay of at least a couple of days. Though Croatia is a country celebrated mostly for its beautiful beaches, the capital city is also beautiful. Zagreb is easily accessed by plane, is close enough to reach via bus from Vienna or Venice, has a booming night life and offers a great shopping experience. Zagreb also makes an excellent day trip and is a viable destination from the holiday resorts of Croatian Istria, the coastal towns and other places in Slovenia, Venice and Trieste in northern Italy.

My city should be featured on this website because Zagreb is a lesson in how to lead an ideal laid-back city life. Here we don’t chase after trams, or deadlines. Instead we enjoy multiple coffee breaks and discuss local soccer results. Dinamo is THE soccer team of the city…

Zagreb has also modern architecture

Streets of Zagreb

It’s not to be recommended as a day trip for people staying further south in Croatia as distances take longer to cover in this part of Europe. The train to Split (as far south as you can travel by train in Croatia) is an overnight one and you may have a few hours to kill before it departs; fortunately the station is central so you can easily take in a few sights before you leave.

View of Zagreb from the Upper (Old) town

City full of love

Zagreb revolves around the city’s main square, the Trg bana Jelacica. The square is always full of people, old, young and the very young. This is the heart of the city. In the background you can see the twin spirals of the spectacular St. Stephan’s Church. Right behind the main square is the colorful Dolac Market. Set up on an open roof terrace, it is a symphony of fresh farm produce, fresh fish, local arts and crafts all surrounded by haggling locals and sun burnt peasants. Dolac is a great place to stock up on Croatian cheese, olive oils and handicrafts.

Ban Jelacic on the Main Square

At the main square in particular, pedestrians should be aware that the trams can move quickly. On the subject of walking, it’s also important to know that the city is essentially on two levels (Gornji grad – the upper town and Donji grad – the lower town) connected either by a moderately steep hill, a short funicular ride or stone steps, depending on where you go up or down. Due to the narrow streets, the one way system and some traffic-free streets, Zagreb is not the kind of city that lends itself to open-topped bus tours ( one company offers a segway tour of Zagreb though) so you do need to walk a fair bit if you want to see a lot. Fortunately, caf culture is an intrinsic part of Zagreb life so you should do as the locals do and take regular breaks at pavement cafes.

One of the attractions in Zagreb – Short funicular ride to Upper town

Main Square in Zagreb

Heart of the city – Trg Bana Jelacica

The most random thing about my city is a cannonball fired everyday at the stroke of noon from the Lotrščak Tower.

The city center, known as Ilica, spreads out from the Main Square, and is full of boutiques and cafes. I have spent many afternoons combing these lanes, finding bargains in the most unexpected corners. At the other end of Ilica is Britain Square. On Sundays the square hosts a charming antique market.

Ilica – Main street in the city

Zagreb Main Street with trams

Coffee is a very important part of the Croatian social make-up. The city is dotted with coffee shops and the Croats can be found sipping on a cup at all times. Take part in this local tradition at the Flower Square (situated very close to the Main Square): Croatia’s most fashionable drop by here to catch up and be seen over coffee and beer.

When I crave something sweet I always go to Slastičarnica Vincek, a popular pastry shop. I usually have the kremšnita (vanilla custard cake) with a cup of coffee. If you have to order one thing off the menu from the local pizzerias it has to be cevapcici – small pieces of grilled mixed meat served with traditional bread. Don’t eat meat? Try burek – a pastry stuffed with cheese (it also comes with minced meat).

Dolac Market is my one-stop shop for great fresh fruits and vegetables, meat cuts, homemade delicacies and local handicrafts.

Dolac market is a busy place 

Dolac market – great fresh fruits and vegetables

Locals know to skip worrying about food at local cafe-bars (most bars here don’t serve food with drinks, save for peanuts) and check out the small pizzerias and kebab joints instead. Cafes have no problem if you bring your sandwich or slice along.

Ilica is always busy

My personal tip for Zagreb is to head to Ilica street – this main stretch starts at Trg Ban Jelacic (Ban Jelacic Square) and heads west. The main square is easily accessed from all parts of the city by the excellent tram network and is a popular meeting spot for people young and old. To get a feel for the place I recommend the fantastic pekara or bakery in the square do what the locals do and buy a pastry wrapped sausage and wander along the nearby streets and the main stretch of shops.

Zagreb has beautiful Cathedral

If you’re one for history head to the Upper (or Old) Town of Zagreb. Here within the winding lanes and old fashioned gas lamps, you’ll find many of the city’s prominent landmarks: the Croatian Parliament building; the St.Mark’s Church, with its unique tiled roof; and the medieval Lotrscak Tower – even today a canon is fired from the tower every afternoon. From here make your way up to the shrine at Stone Gate where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared. The Old Town is peppered with art galleries, museums and old churches, as well as wonderful photo opportunities.

Stone Gate

Past Stone Gate and down hill is Zagreb’s most popular watering hole/street – Tkalciceva Ulica. These streets are marked with old world Baroque buildings. A mix-n-match row of pubs, caf-bars, restaurants, gift boutiques and even tiny art galleries are etched along the sides. Come Friday night, these tiny lanes host quite a party.

Zagreb suburbs and Medvednica Mountain

Zagreb is situated between the Medvednica mountain range and the Sava River, which makes for great side trips. You can take a stroll up the Mountain or take a cable car ride up the slopes and enjoy the view of the city below. During the winters, the mountain offers skiing facilities and attracts a great crowd to the peaks. Another popular haunt is the Maksimir Park; this is one of the largest parks in the region, with a beautiful oak forest, five little lakes and even a zoo, which the children will enjoy.

This is also a city of museums and art. While there are over twenty-one museums, the ones you should absolutely visit are the Mimara Museum and the Museum of the City of Zagreb.

Zagreb streets – people are everywhere

If you weren’t going to stop off at any museums or galleries you could easily navigate the chief sights of Zagreb in one day, but a visit of a couple of days would be enough to take in some of the parks, a museum or gallery and still allow plenty of time to soak up the atmosphere. Zagreb looks beautiful at any time of the year but the very cold winters and the very hot summers may influence your decision. The city also plays host to a variety of different festivals over the course of the year (see the end of this review for a link to a list of them) and this might also help you decide when to visit.

Sightseeing by the day and partying by night with lots of coffee breaks in between that’s a perfect day in Zagreb.

In the summer you should make your way to the Strossmayer Promenade, sit under chestnut trees and hide from the scorching sun. Summer is also a time to enjoy Zagreb’s longest street festival on the promenade; an event full of art, music and wine.

In the fall you should snack on roasted chestnuts available at stalls along the city’s many squares. In the winter you should head up Sljeme, take in the views and ski down the slopes. A hidden gem in my city is Stone Gate, a small shrine dedicated to Mary, in the arch of the only surviving medieval town gate.

Zagreb is well connected on the European rail network and there are regular trains to cities such as Belgrade, Ljubljana, Vienna, Venice and Budapest. Buses also connect Zagreb with destinations across Europe.

Marko square – touristy place
There are plenty of hotels, with the ones closer to the centre being more expensive – some are in very grand buildings, and the cheaper ones being closer to the train station. If you are looking for cheap hostel accommodation you can find several advertising at the train station, and there is always the possibility of private rooms though these tend to be further out of town. Check on-line for the B&B accommodations, there is plenty of different opportunities.

Zagreb – Main train station

Zagreb is my city

My mother passed away one year ago – on Mothers Day! It is hard to believe one year has gone by already. There is not one day that passed I did not think about her. It has definitely been a very difficult year for me and my family. We still talk about her and her life at our family gathering. Here is what I wrote about her last year:

Weep not for me that I have died; rejoice instead that I have lived!

My mother passed away today – on Mothers Day! She quietly passed away at the home for elderly people „DOM TOLIĆ BRADAŠEVIĆ“ in Zagreb (Croatia), at the age of eighty-six. After a long illness, she succumbed to cancer after fighting it for more than 15 years. I think my mother had a very fruitful and happy life and was the most significant inspiration in my life.

Zdenka was born in Zagreb and lived all her life in her beloved city. She was married to our father, Petar Kahlina for a remarkable 44 years until 1988, when our father died due to a terminal illness. However difficult time of her life it was, she never remarried but not to say that she was lonely. She lived a very active life and for years was involved with the senior citizens organization where she had a large circle of friends and acquaintances.  She also visited her sons in Edmonton on more than one occasion and our families reunited with her in Zagreb every two years regularly.

Our mother passed away peacefully on Sunday, May 9th, 2010, her smile leaving a glow in her room at „DOM TOLIĆ BRADAŠEVIĆ“, place for elderly people near Zagreb, where she had lived the very last year of her life.
 
With the following pictures I want to celebrate her life and remember her for all the good things she did. She will be forever remembered by her children, Zdenko and Marijan and their spouses Vera and Sandy, who all live in Edmonton, Canada. She will remain in the hearts of her five grand children Neven, Sanja, Robyn, Christina and Jeffrey.

Our families are thankful to all her caregivers at „DOM TOLIĆ BRADAŠEVIĆ“in Croatia and doctors and nurses at the Holy Spirit Hospital in Zagreb.
We are forever indebted and want to give special thanks to Damir and Marija, her nephew and his wife,  for all their kindness, love, care and attention they provided to our mother over the last number of years, since her closest family was out of reach living such huge distances away.

 
Zdenko and Marijan with mom 
 
2009: Grand children Sanja and Neven with grandma 
 
2009: Family with mom in her room. 
 
2009: Grand children Christina and Sanja with grandma 
 
2009: Sandy, Marijan’s partner with mom 
 
2009: Vera with mom 
 
2007: Zdenko with mom 
 
2007: Zdenka with her older son Marijan 
2007: Vera and Zdenko with mom
 
2005: Zdenko with his mother and cousin Damir

Today My Mother Died

© Sania Harris

Today my mother died
Silently without a sign
No inkling about her sadness
Even though we filled her with madness
Never being a burden for us
Instead giving us all a bless

Today my mother died
The one to whom I always lied
Screaming at her for her calmness
Creating all kind of fuss
Not thinking about her loneliness
Putting her in deep distress

Today my mother died
Thinking about her fate, I sighed
The times I went away
The times I never looked back
The pains she felt astray
The pains she felt setback

Today my mother died
I recalled her past and cried

 
1995: Zdenka with twin brother Zvonko
 
1943: Zdenka with her husband Petar Kahlina
 
1940: Zdenka with her husband Petar Kahlina
 
Twins Zdenka and Zvonko in 1939
 
Family Leskovar 1939: Zvonko, mother Gustika, Zdenka and their father Vilim.
 
Twins Zdenka and Zvonko in 1934 with their father Vilim
 
Twins in 1934: Zdenka and Zvonko
 
Twins in 1924: Zdenka and Zvonko

Family Leskovar in 1929

Until we meet again mother, rest in peace. We love you.

Your son Zdenko

By: ALEX CREVAR

THE Croatian capital is in the midst of an identity crisis. Geographically, Croatia is indisputably part of the Balkan Peninsula, but call a chic Zagrebian Balkan and prepare to get an earful.

Markov square at Easter

While Zagreb’s vibe is indeed more Vienna than, say, Belgrade, it can also be deliciously rough-and-tumble. Zagreb is haggling with thick-fingered, green-market farmers and wee-hour clubbing with boisterous Slavs — both just beneath the mammoth spires of the city’s cathedral. It’s a leggy, high-heeled blonde visiting a bloody-aproned fishmonger. And it’s the construction of a new Museum of Contemporary Art — due to open by year’s end — and the avant-garde validation that the city hopes it will bring.

 Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac’s tomb in the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Friday 

3 p.m.
1) THE HISTORY LESSON

Get a taste of Zagreb’s 11th-century roots on the cobbled streets of the area known collectively as Upper Town, where the city began as two townships: Kaptol, with its largely clerical population, and Gradec, where artisans and merchants settled. United in 1850 after centuries of feuding, the districts still have distinct personalities fueled by their origins. Kaptol still holds the city’s visual calling card: the neo-Gothic Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Kaptol 31; 385-1-48-14-727), which originally dates from the 13th century, though it has gone through multiple reconstructions in the centuries since. Beneath tandem 344-foot steeples, a marble-heavy interior shelters an 800-year-old treasury and the tomb of the controversial 20th-century Croat Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac. In Gradec, a 10-minute walk west of the cathedral, the Zagreb City Museum (Opaticka 20; 385-1-48-51-361; www.mgz.hr) is a visitor’s window into the city’s political, architectural and artistic history. Most fascinating: the room-sized, miniature Lower Town street plan. Admission is 20 kuna, or about $3.85 at 5.23 kuna to the dollar; children 7 and under are free.

6 p.m.
2) CLASS DISMISSED

Once a stream that separated Gradec and Kaptol, pedestrian-only Tkalciceva Street is now jammed with cafes, boutiques and ateliers. Caffe Bar Cica (Tkalciceva 18; no phone), where recycled washing machines are repurposed as tables and funky world music thumps, is the venue for spotting fashionable Purgers (as Zagrebians call themselves) and tilting a glass of the local Velebitsko beer (17 kuna for a half-liter). Specialty rakija, Slavic schnapps, are also available in assorted flavors including honey, blueberry and walnut (12 kuna for a shot). Too early to imbibe? The Ivica i Marica restaurant and patisserie (Tkalciceva 70; 385-1-48-28-999; www.ivicaimarica.com), named after Croatia’s version of Hansel and Gretel, serves traditional pastries with a healthy twist — no white sugar or white flour. The apple strudel and dobra vila, a carrot cake flavored with ginger and cinnamon, are delectable (15 kuna each).

8 p.m.
3) A BITE AND BEBOP

Vinodol (Teslina 10; 385-1-48-11-427; www.vinodol-zg.hr), like many traditional restaurants here, pays homage to meat. Where this place, a mainstay since Tito-era Yugoslavia, differs is in presentation and technique. In the vaulted-brick dining room and in the ivy-clad courtyard, where a grill chef turns steaks and forearm-length kebabs, the service is impeccable. The lamb (80 kuna) and grilled trout (78 kuna) are sure-fire. Across the street, Bosko Petrovic, a septuagenarian vibraphone master and Croatian jazz patriarch, runs the B.P. Club (Teslina 7; 385-1-48-14-444; www.bpclub.hr). The cozy basement joint hosts four festivals a year, as well as nightly lineups. Acts begin at 9 p.m. (covers range from 30 to 50 kuna); reservations recommended.

Saturday 

10 a.m.
4) KITSCHY KAVA

“Spica” is the Saturday-morning ritual when trendy Purgers pack cafe patios near the central Jelacic Square. The result: a fashion smackdown with Yorkie-inhabited handbags, Croatian paparazzi, plenty of sideways glances, and, oh yeah, kava (coffee). Foreigners — that is, anyone wearing money belts and sneakers — have little chance in the impromptu competition. Best just to grab a wicker chair at Bulldog (Bogoviceva 6; 385-1-40-02-070; www.bulldog-zagreb.com), order a large macchiato (13 kuna), and enjoy the free show. After you get your fill, head to the Millennium sweet shop across the street (Bogoviceva 7; 385-1-48-10-850; www.slasticarnica-millennium.hr) for a decadent cone of schwarzwald — a mixture of cream, Cognac, chocolate and cherries (7 kuna) — and prove your figure is of no concern.

1 p.m.
5) AT, AND FROM, THE MARKET

At Dolac, Zagreb’s main fresh market (Sunday to Friday, 6 a.m. to 2 p.m.; to 3 p.m. on Saturdays), an army of red umbrellas shades stalls brimming with lavender, nuts, honey, flowers and cheeses, as well as plenty of local, seasonal fruits and vegetables. “What you call organic,” one vendor said, “we call food.” After you build up an appetite, head to lunch at Restaurant Kerempuh (Kaptol 3; 385-1-48-19-000; www.kerempuh.hr), which overlooks Dolac’s northwest corner. There’s a clutch of outdoor tables next to a chalkboard advertising daily specials, or you can watch the hubbub through big bay windows. Order a bottle of excellent grasevina, a domestic white wine (130 kuna), and Croatian fare concocted from market goodies, like the grilled sea bass served with Swiss chard and potatoes (75 kuna).

3 p.m.
6) HORSESHOE HUSTLE

Lower Town, which offers a more everyday vibe than its Upper Town sibling, has a 19th-century Hapsburgesque layout dominated by a “Green Horseshoe” of urban parks. Surrounding those oases, where kaleidoscopic tulips frame spring-to-autumn concerts, is a hodgepodge of grand architecture and cultural venues. The city’s main art venue is Mimara Museum (Rooseveltov Trg 5; 385-1-48-28-100), a neo-Renaissance palace open Tuesday through Sunday (admission is 40 kuna). Its 3,000-plus-piece collection runs the gamut from Persian tapestries to works by Renoir, Rubens and Degas.

8 p.m.
7) DALMATIAN FLAVOR

Zagreb is filled with immigrants from around Croatia, so the country’s diverse gastronomy is well represented. Didov san — “Grandfather’s dream” — (Mletacka 11; 385-1-48-51-154; www.konoba-didovsan.com) is a konoba, or Dalmatian-style tavern, serving specialties from the Neretva River delta. Though Grandpa has passed on, he’d be proud of his kinfolk, who dish up frog and eel stew (180 kuna) and sautéed lamb with veggies (150 kuna, order in advance) on red-checked tablecloths under rough-sawn ceiling beams and black-and-whites of donkeys toting grapes. Of interest to the particularly ravenous is the didova tava (80 kuna), a huge stew.

Midnight
MUSICAL MASS

Purgeraj (Park Ribnjak 1; 385-1-48-29-253; www.purgeraj.hr) is the best option for live music in the tangle of clubs beneath the cathedral’s bell towers. Secluded deep in leafy Ribnjak Park, the spot offers a spectrum of genres (funk, disco, punk, ska, blues, jazz and rockabilly) to an international and eclectic crowd. For fortification, try the set of a dozen liquor shots (90 kuna) offered in test tubes on the tiki-style terrace. Then step into the dance hall, decorated with rock-and-roll album covers, and groove until the wee hours. (Weekend covers are around 15 kuna.)

Sunday 

10 a.m.
9) YUGO-NOSTALGIC

The outdoor antique market on British Square (Britanski Trg) proves there’s value yet in Yugoslavia-era trinkets. Bring a couple of hundred kuna and haggle for portraits of Tito, filigree cigarette boxes, medals, coins and other old-school items. Treasures in hand, look for a sign that reads “Simply Luxury Coffee” and cross to Eli’s Caffe (Ilica 63; 385-91-52-79-990; www.eliscaffe.com). The owner (and three-time Croatian barista champion) Nik Orosi roasts his own beans and serves, saucers down, the town’s tastiest java (a signature cappuccino is 12 kuna).

1 p.m.
10) NATURE FOR NURTURE

Before heading out, get a little perspective at the Medvednica Nature Park (385-1-45-86-317; www.pp-medvednica.hr; take the No. 14 tram or the 8 to the 15): 56,000 acres of mountain trails towering above Zagreb, filled with deer and foxes, chestnuts and oaks. Sweat out last night’s debauchery with a medium-effort hike that leads you to Puntijarka hut (385-1-45-80-384), which houses a restaurant perched at the 3,200-foot mark. Reward yourself with rib-sticking bean-and-sausage stew (25 kuna) and a half-liter of domestic Karlovacko beer (12 kuna).

THE BASICS 

Continental Airlines offers flights from Newark to Zagreb, with one stopover. A recent Web search found early fall fares starting at $887. A 25-minute airport taxi to the center runs about 200 kuna (about $38 at 5.23 kuna to the dollar). Convenient and inexpensive, trams (8 kuna for a ticket good for 90 minutes) are the way to travel in town.

Opened in 1925 to accommodate Orient Express passengers, the Regent Esplanade (Mihanoviceva 1; 385-1-45-66-021; www.regenthotels.com), located next to Zagreb’s Art Nouveau train station, still sets the standard. The grand swirl of marble and crystal has hosted Queen Elizabeth II and Louis Armstrong and includes a splurge-worthy restaurant and chi-chi cocktail bar. Rates start at 140 euros (or $203, at 1.45 euros to the dollar) for a double.

The 258-room Hotel Dubrovnik (Gajeva 1; 385-1-48-63-555; www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr), which dates back to 1929, is a straightforward affair with sleek wooden furniture and fine service, but its location is the key: one of its two buildings overlooks the Saturday morning social scene, the other faces Jelacic Square. Doubles start at 165 euros.

While Zagreb’s vibe is indeed more Vienna than, say, Belgrade, it can also be deliciously rough-and-tumble. The pedestrian-only Tkalciceva Street is jammed with cafes, boutiques and ateliers.

A midday rainbow appears over rooftops adjacent to the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. The neo-Gothic cathedral originally dates from the 13th century, though it has gone through multiple reconstructions in the centuries since.

Beneath the Cathedral’s tandem 344-foot steeples, a marble-heavy interior shelters an 800-year-old treasury and the tomb of the controversial 20th-century Croat Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac.

The outdoor antiques market on British Square proves there’s value yet in Yugoslavia-era trinkets. Bring a couple of hundred kuna and haggle for portraits of Tito, filigree cigarette boxes, medals, coins and other old-school items.

The sign outside Eli’s Caffe reads “Simply Luxury Coffee.” The owner (and three-time Croatian barista champion) Nik Orosi roasts his own beans and serves, saucers down, the town’s tastiest java.

The Ivica i Marica restaurant and patisserie, named after Croatia’s version of Hansel and Gretel, serves traditional pastries with a healthy twist — no white sugar or white flour.

Didov san — “Grandfather’s dream” — is a konoba, or Dalmatian-style tavern, serving specialties from the Neretva River delta.

The restaurant dishes up frog and eel stew and sautéed lamb with veggies on red-checked tablecloths under rough-sawn ceiling beams and black-and-whites of donkeys toting grapes.

At Dolac, Zagreb’s main outdoor market, an army of red umbrellas shades stalls brimming with lavender, nuts, honey, flowers and cheeses, as well as plenty of local, seasonal fruits and vegetables. Children sell berries at the market.

A vendor slices up watermelon at the Dolac market.

Vinodol, like many traditional restaurants in Zagreb, pays homage to meat. A grill chef turns steaks and forearm-length kebabs.

Zagreb‘s Lower Town has a 19th-century Hapsburgesque layout dominated by a “Green Horseshoe” of urban parks.

A Croatian couple spend an afternoon on a terrace overlooking the city.

On my resent trip to Croatia, I decided to take pictures of the Croatian food specialties as they were being served to us. I will try to describe them to the best of my knowledge…

 Croatian cuisine is heterogeneous, and is therefore known as “the cuisine of regions”. Its modern roots date back to Proto-Slavic and ancient periods and the differences in the selection of foodstuffs and forms of cooking are most notable between those on the mainland and those in coastal regions. Mainland cuisine is more characterized by the earlier Proto-Slavic and the more recent contacts with the more famous gastronomic orders of today – Hungarian, Viennese and Turkish – while the coastal region bears the influences of the Greek, Roman and Illyrian, as well as of the later Mediterranean cuisine – Italian and French.

Every holiday has its typical dish. Pork and potato stew is eaten on pilgrimages and at fairs; cod is prepared for Christmas Eve and Good Friday; pork is eaten on New Year s Day; doughnuts are an inseparable part of carnival festivities, and in the south they prepare a similar fried sweet dish known as hrostule. Ham and boiled eggs with green vegetables are served at Easter, while desserts comprise traditional cakes (e.g. pinca). Kulen (hot-pepper flavoured sausage) at harvest time, goose for St. Martin s Day, turkey and other fowl, as well as sarma (meat-stuffed cabbage leaves), are served on Christmas Day. At weddings, a variety of dishes with dozens of cakes and biscuits are served, including breskvice, shortbread bear paws, gingerbread biscuits, fritule – plain fritters, etc.

The favourite meals of very many people on all occasions include spit-roasted lamb and suckling pig, grilled fish, calamari cooked in various ways, barbecue dishes – raznjici, cevapcici and mixed grill – prosciutto and sheep’s cheese, or smoked ham and cottage cheese with sour cream, fish stew, venison.

The cuisine of Istria and the Kvarner regions represents a special Croatian style of cooking, a blend of inland and coastal. These regions are rich in excellent fish and seafood, most notable among them being found in the northern Adriatic: scampi (prawns), calamari and shellfish from the Limski Kanal (Fiord). After an excellent prosciutto, and cheese and olives, many traditional wine cellars offer fish soup, fish stew, boiled prawns, black and white frutti di mare risotto, as well as other dishes typical of the central part of the Istrian peninsula – traditional wine soup, ragout (jota) similar to Italian minestrone (manistra, menestra, menestra), and also pasta and risotto dishes cooked with the famous truffles of the region – a self-sown precious mushroom species, unearthed by specially trained dogs and pigs; these fungi have the reputation of containing aphrodisiac properties.

The excellent Istrian wines include Malmsey of Buje, Cabernet of Porec, Sauvignon and Merlot, as well as Terrano of Buzet, Zlahtina of Vrbnik, and sparkling wines – Bakarska Vodica, etc. Fine restaurants abound in Istria, especially on the Opatija, Crikvenica, Rovinj and Porec littorals, both in the interior and on the islands.

Here we are cooking fish paprikash… (fish and potato stew).

 Mixed meat BBQ…

Ćevapi

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Ćevapčići (formal diminutive) or Ćevapi (pronounced [ʨɛ'va:pi]) in some parts, is a dish of grilled minced meat , found in the countries of the Western Balkans: Srbija, Croatia, and others. They may be served on a plate or in a flatbread (lepinja or somun), often with chopped onions, sour cream, kajmak, ajvar, cottage cheese, and so on.

Ćevapi with onions in a somun, from Baščaršija

 Ćevapčići

Serbian ćevapčići from Leskovac are made of beef (usually of three mixed types of cuts) and served on a plate with a lepinja. The only proper traditional way of grilling ćevapčići is to use glowing coals beneath a grill. Both expressions ćevapčići and ćevapi are common in Serbia. In Belgrade, from where ćevapčići spread all over the world, this is the only traditional expression. In other parts of Serbia ćevapčići are often made of both pork and beef. Although ćevapčići is a formal diminutive, ćevapčići from Leskovac are longer (10-12 cm) then Bosnian ćevapi (5-8 cm). The Leskovac-recipe was the one that became popular in Belgrade during the 19th century and then spread all over Yugoslavia (except Bosnia and Herzegovina) and Europe and United States.^[1] Also famous are ćevapčići from Kosovo.

Bosnian ćevapi from the Baščaršija district of Sarajevo and Banja Luka are probably the most famous ćevapi in the Balkans. Travnik and Tuzla are known for their ćevapi made of beef stewed with spices. This dish is very popular in some parts of former Yugoslavia as well. The stew is poured on lepinja or somun flatbread and few chunks of meat left there. Banja Luka is known for ćevapi which are multiple rolls (usually four) joined together. Bosnian ćevapi are made from two types of minced beef meat, hand mixed and formed with a funnel. Formed ćevapi are grilled. Some people consider that the best ćevapi are found in “Baščaršija”, Sarajevo.

Croatian ćevapčići are made of both pork and beef. A serving usually consists of 5-10 pieces, served with white bread, minced red pepper, salt and onions.

Raznjići

Raznjici (a type of shish kebob; pieces of veal/pork grilled).

“Cevabdzinica” is one common type of Croatian (originally from Bosnia) restaurant. A Cevabdzinica serves the Bosnian version of hamburger – pljeskavica and cevapcici (or cevapi). They are usually given in a special warmed bread (lepinja) and with onion. Featured along with the cevapi or cevapcici (a type of spiced grilled meat, little unwrapped sausages) are other grilled meats as well, like sudzukice (sausages), teleci raznjici (veal kabob), djulbastija (veal cutlet), teleci bubrizi (veal kidney), pileci raznjici (chicken kabob) and teleca jetra (liver). Grilled sweet red peppers are a good accompaniment. Also served are bureks (a layered filled pastry).

 Raznjici (a type of shish kebob) with onion rings…

Home made appetizers: smoked bacon, home made ham (perschutto), cheese, spicy sausage kullen.

Home made ham (perschutto) and cheese plate..

Appetizer: Gnocchi in sauce.

Ocean fish of the grille…

Ocean fish of the grille…

Pig roast… (Double whammy!)

Pig roast (de-boned!)

Home made pizza!

Main course: meat, salad & fries… served all at the same time.

Owen baked ocean fish, eggplant and potatoes.

Poppy seed and Walnut rolls, and cherry pie.

Fresh from the tree, home grown peaches.

Fresh cherries… pick as much as you can eat!

Croatia has many Chesnut trees.

Zagreb Reclaims Its Status As Must-See Old World City

By ROBERT CROSS, Chicago Tribune

ZAGREB, Croatia — One morning, shrieking whistles yanked me out of a deep sleep. They sounded like a thousand cops dealing with an apocalyptic traffic jam. The constant racket drove out all rational thought.

From my room’s window, I couldn’t see the source, but the whistling persisted as I showered and dressed and made my way downstairs to the lobby of the Hotel Palace, where, just outside, hundreds of young people marched north past Strossmayerov Square, led by bands of whistle-blowers.

“They are finished with school,” a porter explained. “They have no more classes. They look ahead now. It’s good they have something to look forward.”

Ah. Seniors on the cusp of graduation. Party time!

I walked upstream from the revelers and found still more students pouring from the main railroad station via an immense underground shopping mall. They eventually would join the crowds gathered at Ban Jelacic Plaza, the heart of downtown.

A huge equestrian statue of viceroy Josip Jelacic dominates the plaza. He was a 19th-century hero who tried, unsuccessfully, to wrest Croatian independence from ruling Hungary. Josip Broz Tito, the Yugoslav strongman, disliked that symbol of Croatian nationalism and had it removed. In 1990, when Eastern European communism collapsed, Croatians took the statue out of storage, reassembled it and returned it to its original site.

In preceding days, I had grown fond of Ban Jelacic Plaza, because it looks so wonderfully Old European, an expanse surrounded by shops and cafes, a pedestrian zone buffering the lower, more modern, city from the medieval enclaves on the bluff above. Bright red and blue trolleys clang past umbrellas emblazoned with brewery logos, inviting everyone to linger awhile.

But even the “modern” city holds on tight to structures with all the European architectural frills: ornate pediments, statuary, latticework, Renaissance and baroque touches, and Gothic buttresses.

Over the Cold War years and again during the conflicts of the 1990s, Zagreb had filtered through my imagination mostly as a black-and-white image of a troubled and fragmented Yugoslavia.

Now the capital of an independent Croatia shows off its colors and vibrancy. Maybe it always was thus, but it never came to mind as one of the must-see cities on the Continent.

The Day of the Whistles dawned with misty rain, the sort of drab beginning that can make an aged metropolis feel mysterious, even grim and threatening. But the students brightened everything. It was a fine time to find a cafe and watch the party rev up.

On other days – some rainy, some not – Zagreb felt welcoming and yet enigmatic, one of those places where the next corner likely holds something unexpected and – delightful. The metropolis blossomed in Technicolor, no matter the weather: yellow on the walls of some beaux-arts buildings, orange tile roofs, murals and frescoes.

A woman passing my hotel (built lavishly in 1891) exclaimed to a companion, “Look at this! The buildings are beautiful.”

As in most cities, the exuberance of youth enlivens the surroundings but can mar the decor. I came to the conclusion that a wall in Zagreb without graffiti was a wall built, or scrubbed, that morning. Graffiti has reached the level of a local art form (in some places), as well as an eyesore (in a lot of places).

Other examples of artistic expression tend to be hidden away. On the same block as my hotel, the Gallery of Modern Art appeared gray and deserted, its tiny portal sheltering some pedestrians from a sudden downpour.

I took a chance and found the door unlocked, and up some stairs discovered dazzling, vivid and wickedly humorous statuary and paintings, including a streetscape by Ivan Benkovic labeled “Chicago 1914″ and Edo Kovacevic’s “Tkalciceva Street,” painted in 1933.

Tkalciceva Street itself, I later found out, looks very much the same as it does on that canvas. Shops, bars, restaurants and all the other attractions that make the street a nighttime magnet and a boon to strollers have been carved into old, renovated buildings.

During the day, the area steps lively too. Dolac Market operates in a large outdoor space nearby, every day from early morning until well into the afternoon. Tkalciceva and its winding cobblestone pedestrian walkway flanks one side of the medieval upper town, and the Kapitol district is on the other side, marked by the two spires of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.

A short, uphill walk leads to St. Mark’s Church. Its brightly tiled roof is decorated with a medieval coat of arms and the city emblem, providing a touch of color in a square otherwise dominated by the neoclassical presidential palace, the Parliament building, city hall and strings of black BMWs awaiting the lunch hour.

I spent most of a day exploring that little sector and I could have spent a few days more.

At the City Museum, a 17th-century convent has been fitted out with an organized maze of displays. Children far too young for whistle blowing laughed and shouted through a comprehensive and fascinating series of galleries that took us with curatorial artistry from medieval Zagreb to the present. Seemingly nothing had been left out: We saw weapons, religious objects, costumes, historic paintings, photographs, manufactured goods and scale models of the city at various stages of its growth.

All through my visit to Croatia – from Dubrovnik on up the coast – I kept an eye out for the creations of sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. His impressive Native American equestrian statues that flank Chicago’s Congress Plaza have always been among my favorite landmarks. Toward the end of his life, he taught at Notre Dame, which exhibits samples of his work.

So seeking out Mestrovic’s atelier felt almost like a pilgrimage, because Zagreb would be my last stop on the Croatia tour. After so much anticipation, I nearly passed right by the studio, because a restoration crew had obscured the entrance area with scaffolding and tarp.

Art And Architecture

Across from the Hotel Palace, in one of the park-like plazas that ring Zagreb’s central district, I visited the Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters. It’s named for the 19th-century Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer – a leader of the movement to unite the country and an avid art collector. The gallery sits two floors above the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences (founded by the bishop).

I found myself alone as I took in the gilt-framed Italian, Dutch, French and Croatian artists from centuries past. And again, the building itself was beautiful, a neo-Renaissance pastry with a tall Ivan Mestrovic statue of Strossmayer looming over the backyard.

The galleries were fine, but so many streets seemed to beckon. Some led to unattractive apartment blocks. Others took roundabout ways to lead me back to the main downtown plaza.

On one of those strolls, I came upon an unusual statue of poet August Senoa – a life-size and stylized figure in black granite, casually leaning against a matching kiosk. Marija Ujevic finished the work in 1986, my guidebook said, but the book had provided no directions to the spot. Aimless wandering has its rewards.

When it came to the city’s botanic garden, my destination was much more specific. I walked west from the magnificent Esplanade Hotel on a street filled with imposing government buildings and private apartments. On a sweltering day, those businesslike blocks cried out for green relief, and the gardens appeared at just the right moment.

Before plunging into the nearby museum complex and the bustle of city life, I could walk around flower beds and stands of trees, cross a broad lawn and pause on a graceful little bridge fit for a Monet lily pond.

I saw a few young men and women lounging on the grass, obviously with romance on their minds. At that point, clearly, they had come to the right place – not just the Botanical Garden but Zagreb as a whole.

For more information: Croatian National Tourist Office: 350 Fifth Ave., Suite 4003, New York, NY 10118; www.croatia.hr; Zagreb Tourist Board: www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr.

By: Dumneazu

Its been a dreary and lingering winter in Budapest, which is up in the top reaches of the Carpathian basin, so when spring won’t come to us, we have to go to spring. That means down south, and that means Da Balkans. It was Aron’s 15th birthday this week, and so to celebrate we headed down south. Zagreb, capital city of Croatia, doesn’t care what the temperature is. If the calendar says it is spring, than the whole city can be found outside sitting in outdoor cafes or sitting in the hostel with pizza and Battlestar Galactica reruns on Dad’s laptop.

One drawback to visiting Zagreb has always been the lack of inexpensive lodgings. The old Communist era Youth Hotel is undergoing reconstruction, so we chose one of the newer Youth hostels, the Mali Mrak. The last year has seen a bunch of hostels opening, and the Mali Mrak offered a Spartan double room and a cozy living room. Since we were arriving after 11 pm, they even ordered a pizza, which was waiting for us on arrival. That’s the kind of service you expect at a five star hotel, not a hostel.

Ahhhh… Croatia!

Aron is always up for something new, so it was off top the Dolac Market for lunch. There is a row of cheap good food stands just below the market that offer burek, fried fish, squid, cevapi, and whatever a Croat could possibly want for lunch. Aron went with ribice, small sardines coated in corn meal and fried. He was not yet up to the Japanese method of eating them whole, bones and all, but did pretty well for a 15 year old. These babies were probably swimming in the Adriatic seven hours earlier and tasted fresh and clean. It helps that the Fish market is only 50 meters away.

One of Croatia’s big economic draws is tourism, especially to the Adriatic coast, and that means fish. Whole fish, however, are not cheap. The popular skarpina, or scorpion fish, below are 199 Kuna a kilo, whole. That is around USD $42 a pound. Double that if you are having them baked and served on a plate in a restaurant.

Next to the skarpina are brancin (sea bass) for 100 Kuna a kilo, and gilt headed bream for 129 KN a kilo. The sad truth is that the Adriatic is getting fished out, and demand far exceeds supply for finned fish. The majority are sold to hotels and pricier restaurants. Most Croats settle for smaller fish such as sardines, or squid or octopus, which go for about $10 a kilo.

Interestingly, Croatia has some of the best trout waters in Europe, especially in the mountainous zones near Bosnia. These farmed trout are from the Gacka river, one of Europe’s best wild trout waters. The Gacka is one of the many Croatian and Bosnian rivers that actually benefited from the war era in the 1990s. Since so many rivers were mined to prevent troop movements in the valleys, they were neither stocked nor fished for over a decade, and wild trout bred unimpeded. Today you can fly fish on the Gacka and other streams, but there are still a lot of areas which still need to be cleared of mines.

The Dolac Market is the main central marletplace for Zagreb’s downtown. The upper level is a farmer’s market, while below is a butcher and grocery market indoors. Just behind the market is the Zagreb Cathedral.

The big difference between Croatian markets and what you can get in Hungary or anywhere’s north of here is the preponderance of green vegetables. We simply cannot get greens in Hungary. Croats – particularly Dalmatians – eat a lot of Swiss chard (blitva) and rucola.

Croatian cuisine is deliciously schizophrenic. There is the Pannonian and Slavonian style of cooking, which is close to Hungarian and Central European cuisine with its use of lard, paprika, and beans. Then there is the Dalmatian diet, which is about as Mediterranean as it comes. Greens, fish, and olive oil. Croatian olive oil is some of the thickest and most distinctive I have tasted – these plastic bottles of oil come from small Dalmatian producers, and you can actually taste the salt sea flavor from olive groves located out on the Adriatic islands.

Another Dalmatian creation is prsut, ham dried in the dry air of the mountains above the Adriatic. Like its Italian namesake, prosciutto, it is slice in almost translucent slices and eaten as an appetizer.

Of course…. if you like something a bit more prosaic and down to earth, there are always sheep balls.

We left the sheep balls for others and had a field day with the burek. If you think of Greek spinach pie, then cross it with lasagna, remove the spinach, and serve it fresh and hot you have burek. We can now get burek in Budapest, but the Burek stand at the Dolac market is a busy place, and all the burek comes hot from the oven. You have a choice of cheese burek or meat (lamb) burek.

Burek is pretty much the same all over the Balkans – it is directly taken from Turkish culture and doesn’t need much improvement. Bulgarain banitsa, perhaps, is the one burek style that I never took a great liking to – usually dry and miserly, and while Turkish burek will always be the apex of Ottoman phyllo-pastrydom in my heart, the Croats do damn good job on it as well.

Aron agrees. He sat down to his plate of cheese burek and went into the kind of trance only a 15 year old can have on discovering something halfway between lasagna and pizza… crusty, noodle-y, meaty, cheesy, all at once. We had to order two servings. Best birthday cake ever.

 Posted by dumneazu

http://www.horinca.blogspot.com/

The oldest part of Zagreb are the two hills, Gradec and Kaptol which remain the most interesting neighbourhood to visit in Zagreb. Back in the 11th century, Kaptol attracted a small religious community while Gradec developed nearby. Unfortunately the Mongols swept through in 1242 and destroyed everything.

  The religious community on Kaptol rebuilt and remained under the Church’s jurisdiction throughout the Middle Ages while Gradec attracted merchants and artisans. The two communities were constantly quarreling but thrived because of large, economically important fairs which brought trade to the region.

It wasn’t until the 17th century that the two towns merged and became Zagreb. It was an unstable time however as the Ottoman Turks were making incursions into the region. A great deal of what is now Croatia fell to the Turks but Zagreb was never taken and it became the capital. The constant threat of Turkish attacks forced the government to relocate to Varazdin between 1756 and 1776 and by the end of the century Zagreb had lost population and economic importance.

As the Turkish threat receded however, Zagreb began to reestablish its trade and commerce connections an by the 19th century it had become the economic and cultural centre of Croatia. Calls for pan-Slavic unity resounded throughout the Balkans and Zagreb intellectuals like Bishop Strossmayer took a leading role in the new movement which sought greater autonomy within the Austro-Hungarian empire.

Zagreb continued to expand geographically from the banks of the Sava River to the southern slopes of Mt Medvednica up until German troops entered Zagreb in 1941. A puppet government under Ante Pavelic was installed and Zagreb was proclaimed capital of the new Independent State of Croatia. Ironically, the fascist government of Pavelic enjoyed little support within Zagreb whose residents continued to support Tito and the Partizans.

Even though the capital of Yugoslavia was Belgrade, Zagreb continued to expand and its economy thrived. In 1991 Croatia became independent and Zagreb became the capital of the new country. 

More beautiful pictures can be found here:

http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=530036